Making headers fit.
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Because that has only one advantage to rocking the engine backward: the angle of the downpipe after fitment. However, it then requires Bob and I to find lengthened subframe bolts, and source the spacers in question, the former of which may be more difficult to do. I still need to find the dimensions and specifications of those bolts so that I can try to find longer replacements online.
I have e-mailed mike at milzymotorsports for advice regarding this issue. I have offered to pay him for his time and advice if he can give me a cost effective and reliable solution to this problem. I hope he will be able to help. I'll be waiting to hear what he has to say. I've e-mailed him in particular because I'm told he is one of the people who has successfully fit 2nd gen headers into a 1st gen w-body (95-99 Monte Carlo or Lumina, I forget which). I've asked him for advice, and will be updating when I get that advice. I remember being told that he tilted the engine backward in order to fit them properly; something I'm trying to avoid for reasons already discussed.
I have e-mailed mike at milzymotorsports for advice regarding this issue. I have offered to pay him for his time and advice if he can give me a cost effective and reliable solution to this problem. I hope he will be able to help. I'll be waiting to hear what he has to say. I've e-mailed him in particular because I'm told he is one of the people who has successfully fit 2nd gen headers into a 1st gen w-body (95-99 Monte Carlo or Lumina, I forget which). I've asked him for advice, and will be updating when I get that advice. I remember being told that he tilted the engine backward in order to fit them properly; something I'm trying to avoid for reasons already discussed.
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I'm not comfortable using grade 8.8 bolts for subframe bolts when the factory bolts were grade 10.9. Has anyone done it before?
In addition, lowering the subframe will cause the same problems with the shaft angles as tilting the engine would.
The only option I see here is to modify the headers to fit that car. Does anyone here know anyone in Northern Ohio who can do this kind of work and not charge me a fortune for it?
In addition, lowering the subframe will cause the same problems with the shaft angles as tilting the engine would.
The only option I see here is to modify the headers to fit that car. Does anyone here know anyone in Northern Ohio who can do this kind of work and not charge me a fortune for it?
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I have an idea.
Cut 2" off the headers right at the flange, and re-weld the flange. Do the same taking 2" off the cross over pipe. Piece of cake, no bending, just cutting, and re-welding at the same angle. That way, you'll get the headers closer to the engine itself, and since they curve downward anyway, it will get us out of the danger zone. I called bob and gave him the idea, and he'll have a guy come over tonight and look at it and see if that can be done. If it can, how hard can it possibly be to make 4 straight cuts and re-welds.
Cut 2" off the headers right at the flange, and re-weld the flange. Do the same taking 2" off the cross over pipe. Piece of cake, no bending, just cutting, and re-welding at the same angle. That way, you'll get the headers closer to the engine itself, and since they curve downward anyway, it will get us out of the danger zone. I called bob and gave him the idea, and he'll have a guy come over tonight and look at it and see if that can be done. If it can, how hard can it possibly be to make 4 straight cuts and re-welds.
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Andrei,
I have had two different kinds of headers on my 3800-powered monte carlo. I first installed some *&* headers when I had an L36, and then when I did the supercharged swap, I upgraded to SLP'* when I found the *&* to be restrictive.
I haven't installed any of the SpeedDaddy headers, so I have no idea what they look like. If they are identical to SLP'*, it'* going to take some pretty heavy firewall modification to make them fit, and more than likely, you'll also have to add longer dogbones, which is what I did to avoid firewall contact with mine. I understand your concern that this can cause issues with axles. What I would suggest would be one of two options ...
1) we can build a set of headers for the 3800 pre-gen w-body that would fit perfectly. cost would probably be around $1000 ceramic coated, or $750 w/o coating. Then you sell the other headers to recoup some of the money. You should be able to sell them around 80-85% of retail pretty easily if they are brand new in box.
2) you can send us your current headers and we can modify them to fit the pre-gen chassis. I don't know how much it would cost, it would just be based on the amount of time we have in it. are the headers coated right now, or bare?
Anyways, let me know what you think, and we'll go from there.
Mike Miller
Milzy Motorsports
I have had two different kinds of headers on my 3800-powered monte carlo. I first installed some *&* headers when I had an L36, and then when I did the supercharged swap, I upgraded to SLP'* when I found the *&* to be restrictive.
I haven't installed any of the SpeedDaddy headers, so I have no idea what they look like. If they are identical to SLP'*, it'* going to take some pretty heavy firewall modification to make them fit, and more than likely, you'll also have to add longer dogbones, which is what I did to avoid firewall contact with mine. I understand your concern that this can cause issues with axles. What I would suggest would be one of two options ...
1) we can build a set of headers for the 3800 pre-gen w-body that would fit perfectly. cost would probably be around $1000 ceramic coated, or $750 w/o coating. Then you sell the other headers to recoup some of the money. You should be able to sell them around 80-85% of retail pretty easily if they are brand new in box.
2) you can send us your current headers and we can modify them to fit the pre-gen chassis. I don't know how much it would cost, it would just be based on the amount of time we have in it. are the headers coated right now, or bare?
Anyways, let me know what you think, and we'll go from there.
Mike Miller
Milzy Motorsports
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It'* going to be tough to get away without a bunch of cutting and re-welding..
You might be able to heat up the primaries and bend it down enough with it bolted up the engine. But with that comes missfitment at the DP and x-over.
You're sure you can't just beat the firewall in?
As far as heat goes, My TOG DP flange is about a 1/4" from my firewall since I raised my drivetrain up. It doesn't hit since the engine torques it away from the firewall under load. And I'm not melting anything.
You might be able to heat up the primaries and bend it down enough with it bolted up the engine. But with that comes missfitment at the DP and x-over.
You're sure you can't just beat the firewall in?
As far as heat goes, My TOG DP flange is about a 1/4" from my firewall since I raised my drivetrain up. It doesn't hit since the engine torques it away from the firewall under load. And I'm not melting anything.