okay... 86+ H-body fuel pumps... which if each gen is good to what hp? and which will swap into which fuel tanks with little to no mods to the housing?

I would like this broad range to help anyone else looking

but more specifically I'm possibly looking at running 240-250+ hp out of the ole delta88 ..and was thinking a Series1 */c fuel pump and 'hotwiring' it with the better wires(less voltage loss to the pump)

the good ole vague haynes manual lists 86-1999 as same procedure to remove the pump... I'm not naive enough to think all the tanks are the same... but is the pump housing itself the same or very similar throughout all the years?

You picked a good time to consider this. DrJay has been doing alot of research on fuel pumps for the Series 1 and Series 2, and has some interesting findings. It seems the Series 1 fuel pump outflows the Series 2. They downgraded in 96. Still trying to confirm the information, as there are some discrepancies between the part numbers and years they were used between his info and mine, but it seems the Series 1 (maybe only supercharged fuel pump) is good for up to 390 horsepower??? He told me that in the wee hours this morning (we crashed at 4am), so we'll get him in here to confirm when he drags his sorry *** up

HOWEVER, for your 86, my 'Magic Book' lists a seperate fuel pump for the 86. Its a different part number than 82-85, with no seperate pump listed for the Diesel. Strictly year dependent for the application. My book doesn't show the breakout, but I find it interesting that the pump is listed under ENGINE, not under FUEL TANK. Are you sure it'* in the tank?

Turn your ignition on and listen for it priming. Try to locate it and confirm. If it'* not in the tank, I think you'll find it alot easier to upgrade

Can you confirm that you have TBI? And you have the 5 liter V8?

(willwren on DrJay'* login )

Do you have a fuel injector of fuel pump fuse? Your pump may be external to the tank.

I have 3.8L LG3-3 HO FWD... it'* the 'smaller' new body

so the TBI 5.0L stuff is a deffinate no... just for funs sake when I get more gas in the tank and the battery charged up I'll check the location of the pump (although I'm pretty sure it'* in the tank)

the pump info however is very cool to know

it'* been both fun and fustrating to find/figure out mods for this very unmodified Vin 3 motor.. I'm not expecting huge things out of the motor.. and even with the cost of the mods I'm still looking well below the cost of a series 1 or series 2 */c engine/trans swap

the year thing really has been a pain looking aftermarket parts.. cause unless specified I'm never quite sure if I'm looking @ rwd or FWD parts

the mods should start in october... but not much huge performance wise till spring (making the car fit for a long jaunt into the interior of BC for Xmas)

thanks guys.. keep any new info coming.. I'm sure alot of other ppl then me would be very happy to know about the fuel pump stuff

No offense, but then how are you expecting to get 240+hp? A stock Series II L67 is just that...240hp.

- Custom Cold air intake
- removed coolant lines from TB
- removed EGR
- Delco Type2 ign module
- MSD DIS coils
- MSD DIS4
- modify stock rear header- remove the crossover flange
- Exhaust - 2" into 2.5" Y pipe into, 2.5" 18inch glasspack(resonator), removed cat, into 2.5" into dual 2.25" magnaflow Fbody muffler.
- Jet performance Stage2 chip
- 180 degree Tstat
- relocated engine oil filter
- Dual oil cooler, 4pass ATF, 2 pass engine
- Dual 180F Thermo bypass
- Head work - Port and polish, chamber blend, Shave head from 8.5:1 to 9.0:1 compression, upgraded valve springs, 1.6:1 roller Rockers

the rest is with nitrous ... a couple things which aren't in that list are possiblities which I don't know if I need yet... like a larger MAF and a maf recalibrator/air fuel controler, opening up the inside of the intake manifold, spark plugs


that should take me around 180-195 n/a if not more with the headwork....ofcourse I might save the headwork for a second engine with some internal work...

I can get alot of things done cheaper then most ppl... weigh this against the CHEAPEST L67 I've found so far would cost 4K + cnd to get it to me... and I wouldn't swap it in without going through the seals, rings, bearings etc .. basically a rebuild... I'm still well under 3/4 of that cost including the cost of buying another LG3 and doing the internal work and getting a custom cam.... not including the utter hassel and crap involved in basically rewiring the car ... this is also a daily driver everything has to be a weekend max for install/mod ...


and beyond all that... I hate being "normal"

awesome dude, I love that mod list! How are you going to up the compression? I really want to do this myself, just w/o replacing the pistons, and new heads, and just a lot of work I don't want to put into her.


-justin

If the stock Series I pump is good to 390, how good is a new replacement? I know they are not the same exact pump.

compression raise is with shaving the head down.. basically planing the mating surface it mates to the block to make the combustion chamber smaller

anyways back to fuel pumps

damn, that'* a lot of work too.

About the fuel pumps. Maybe you should go after the fuel regulator.. or the injectors. Because if my understanding of fuel pumps is correct, they flow the same amount no matter the condition, but the regulator controls how much fuel should come be let in, and whatever fuel is left, is sent back to the tank. So maybe you should keep with the stock fuel pump, and get a manually adjustable fuel regulator, along with some higher lb/hr injectors [dr jay can help out more on this, I only know we hav 19lb/hr injectors]. But the rewiring of the fuel pump isn't a bad idea, but maybe amplifing the voltage would be a little better. Somewhere around here I have something to make 9 volts 15. So maybe feeding it 12, would give you 20.. but I think you'd want to also put a voltage regulator on there, so you can control the fuel pump'* voltage, more for strip, less for daily driving. But it may all be worthless if the fuel just goes back to the tank, [FIX: manually adjustable fuel regulator].


-justin