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PEM install/ oil dipstick tube help

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Old 03-19-2007, 12:24 AM
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Default PEM install/ oil dipstick tube help

I am in the process of installing my hulkspeed PEMS and have run into a problem. The two bolts that hold the manifold to the block are behind the dipstick. how do i get these out? i don't want to break the dipstick tube off and then be screwed.

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and then further left is a stud that is right next to a heat shield and it seems like that stud will be hard to access with the shield in place, what'* the secret to getting this one out?

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Thanks alot.
Old 03-19-2007, 12:27 AM
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I popped my dipstick tube out, just an oring holding it in...until someone else chimes in, this is how I did it.
Old 03-19-2007, 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by SSEimatt93
I popped my dipstick tube out, just an oring holding it in...until someone else chimes in, this is how I did it.
Same thing I did when I installed the ZZP P-log and when I removed it to install the front PEM after selling the ZZP p-log.
Forget how I went about the hidden one, although I remember having to deal with it.... :?
Old 03-19-2007, 05:03 AM
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The one holding the heatshield on is accessed from BETWEEN the tensioner and ac belts. You'll have to get to it from the passenger side

I cussed more than one time getting to this bolt

Here'* the link to my manifold rant
Old 03-19-2007, 07:14 AM
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Who'* Dbeast kidding..he was cursing at me the whole time..

You guys forgetting the 10mm bolt that holds the dipstick to the bottom of that metal shield? Then wiggle and list the dipstick tube out.

Two bolts to keep in mind and they both hold that stinking heat shield.
1 10 mm holding the heat shield to the dipstick tube, the other is a 13mm accessed right above the lower heater hose from the passenger side like Dbeast mentions.
Old 03-26-2007, 11:57 PM
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OK, fronts are done. But i have another question. The rear manifold to DP bolts are becoming the bane of my existence. I have gone at them (from above) for over a day off and on now. I have used an excessive amount of PB blaster to no avail, tried heating them with a propane torch and got nothing as well. To what point do you heat them? i heated them with a propane torch for about 2 solid minutes, Should i be heating them longer?

My last ditch idea is; would it be possible to unbolt the DP from the cat and then fight these bolts once they are off the car? Once under the car the DP to Cat bolts look to be a little more accessible than the ones at the DP by the firewall. I need to have this done by Saturday, and am starting to think i may need to take it to a shop that has a lift and an oxy/acetylene torch.
Old 03-27-2007, 08:15 AM
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I bought a 15mm 6 point wrench for this... it sucks. You can heat much longer than that. Keep in mind, you aren't worried about the old part.
Old 03-27-2007, 10:35 AM
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Alright thanks, I am slowly acquiring an expensive collection of tools. I just paid 50 dollars yesterday for a set of 6 point sockets and a nicer flex ratchet. That is true, worst come to worst i can hope to heat it enough to snap the studs and then just wiggle the manifold out. Did you get to these bolts from above or below? The whole torch around gas lines scares the hell out of me, to the point that I'm using an old spray bottle to mist all the surrounding things with water (and dilute the PB blaster) and have a wet towel nearby in case of fire. Definitely has been a learning experience.
Old 03-27-2007, 11:02 AM
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The fuel lines are on the side rail and come across under the maxifuse cover.

I was able to get the passenger side off w/o much issue. The driverside is the 15mm 6 point wrench. Then laid 1/2 my floor jack handle on top of it...then beat it like a stepchild with the biggest heaviest hammer I had.

Sawzall...torch... breakage. Any way it comes off, it comes off.


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