Fuel trims are getting closer. I'm actually running rich right now, which should theoretically kill KR, shouldn't it? I would like to believe it'* not the EGR delete causing trouble, but I'm starting to think it'* the problem. What other things would you suggest, Blazin?

I'm planning on making the drive to ZZP for a tune, so it'* possible for me to get their thoughts on the issue. But maybe I'll try to remedy the situation before then. Let me know, guys!

Because the EGR is only active at the RPM'* you're having problems at, I think it'* obviously the prime suspect.

Any time you have problems, and you don't know for sure what it is, you MUST undo what you did to verify the cause. You need a new rear manifold for troubleshooting purposes at least.

Don't move on with the mods until you know for certain about the EGR causing (or not) the problem. In the long run, you'll regret it.

My personal opinion? You shouldn't have done it. Knowing how the EGR system works, and why it does what it does tells me that you should re-install it at least for the short-term and sort out the tuning issues WITH it. If you insist on removing it (which I don't suggest) later, then make that the LAST thing you do. That way you can scan first, scan after, and make your final decision as your last mod.

What PCM are you running? stock? Intense? Maybe that is your problem... You are running rich which is causing too much timing to be commanded which is giving you knock.

Changing the whole rear exhaust manifold, EGR, etc. is way too much work for something that ZZP is going to take 30 sec. to fix.Give them 5 min. to tune the **** out of your car.

I'm running my Intense Standard right now, but I still had some KR on the stock PCM. Still not sure what'* happening.

I spoke to ZZP on the the phone and asked if it was common for L36s to experience KR issues after an EGR delete. The guy said, "No. The absence of an EGR should have no affect on your KR." I don't see how he could be completely right, but nevertheless he indicated that L36s don't generally have problems with an EGR delete. What do you guys think? Maybe there'* a completely separate issue causing KR.... have any ideas?

You need a tune... that is the problem! You can't expect to raise compression and throw in a cam and expect to everything to be happy. What are you O2 values and timing looking like when you get KR?

Did you mention your compression ratio and that you only have home ported manifolds?

I mentioned that we raised the compression, but I didn't mention that the manifolds were a DIY job..... do you think that makes a difference? Are the 'professional' PEMs really that much better?

The 95 FSM clearly states the EGR'* purpose, and the effects of a faulty (or deleted) EGR. It clearly states higher combustion temps and KR as the result, as well as decreased performance and mileage.

I'd like to balance that against the possible claims of gains from this? What'* this supposed to do for you?

The biggest advantage comes from saving the UIM. If there'* no EGR system, there'* no UIM failure. Simple as that.

We didn't want to go through the trouble of sleeving my UIM when we thought it was easier to get rid of the whole EGR system. Obviously it'* not, and it'* going to cost me more money and time in the long run. I don't think it was stupid to attempt this, because we had good reason to believe it would work. I'll just have to deal with it.

I'm going to wait and see if any other information surfaces before I bother with replacing my rear manifold and getting a new EGR setup.

If it were me, I'd put the EGR back, and pay the $35 for the Sleeved Dillon UIM.