This is what you're looking for:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=36232

You need to have them welded locally. But it'* a prime opportunity to have the outside of the flanges welded, then port out the OEM weld on the inside for better flow. Any welding shop should be able to do this for you.

You need to make sure they clamp the flanges flat, and weld a little at a time, alternating from port to port to control heat and prevent flange warp.

thanks again for all of the help.... how long would it take a normal shop to do all of it for me including the porting and re-welding??? also what do i tell the guys when i go up to the and tell them what i want done... should i just say to check for cracks and if there are to take my exhuast maninfolds off completely port them out and weld them back onn from the outside?? just curious because i'm still new to all of this i just want to get my car running right and quick so i can continue fu**ing with all of the little ricers out there without harming my engine with all of the KR i have right now.. thanks

Go to the link above and print all the pics except the pic of my butt in my engine bay. Take them with you.

It took me about 2 hours to repair the cracks and stitch-weld around the flanges. It took me another 3 hours with a die-grinder and various bits, grinders, and polishing tips to finish the porting.

FIX YOUR KR MECHANICALLY. Do NOT rely on the Jet to do that for you. KR is something mechanically wrong that needs attention. If you don't do it that way, you'll never gain what you could have, and you'll always be at risk for engine damage. The PCM retards timing (knock retard) because knock is already occuring. This is very bad for your engine internals.

When you get to the ultimate point after modding, you want to see about 1-2° of KR at WOT only (on a hot day). That way you know you pushed as far as you could, and didn't fail to push the mods far enough. Make sense? To me, 1-2° is acceptable for that reason. 5° is spooky, particularly under high boost conditions.

Bill, could you clear something up?

I'm rather confused. You COMPLETLY contradicted yourself here.

I beg to differ on a few levels here because of what the JET stage Two did for me. Seems to me it was suffering from lack of top end fueling EVEN after i had my pump installed..mind you..my porting may not of been perfect, but if it was that bad..would my KR really of reduced...i doubt it..it still reads the knock sensor..
but what the hell do i know?

I didn't contradict myself at all. Exhaust manifold cracks and fuel pressure are mechancial things. Both can cause KR.

Matt, the whole point here is to FIX the KR mechanically, not digitally. There is no 'magic chip' as a proper bandaid for KR. You MUST fix all you can mechanically before relying on programming to keep you safe.

Hm, I was under the impression that for someone to rely on a Jet Chip to reduce KR means that it would reduce KR. Hence contradicting that a Jet Chip would not reduce KR.

If your exhaust manifolds are cracked and are causing KR, the chip will NOT fix that KR. If your fuel pressure is below factory spec, the chip MAY help, but that'* not the proper fix, is it?

Don't want to hijack the tread. but let me know if you find a welder in Rolla that is any good. The kid'* 92 has crack in the EM that needs repair. Be on the lookout for a quick 92 it'll run with ya. Other St Louis boy going to UMR with a SSEI.

do you have this kids e-mail or name so i can look him up because i would like to do some work with him maybe do our EM together or somthing because i learn how to weld next week and have access to welders and all that good stuff andn other experienced students that would probibly help.... so if this guy is interested i would like to do it with him so i can get mine fixed.... and ohhh bye the way what color is the SSEi? i've onnly seen a couple down here besides minne (forest green) but a white onne and a purple one.... let me know... and if he is interested my e-mail is Djbc68@umr.edu