Well, I'm getting ready to buy new rockers and I'm looking for feedback on which valve springs to use. Given what Whizbang says here:

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.as...mode=1&smode=1

I don't need anything aggressive. I don't plan to race, I am just looking for more get-up-n-go when I push the go pedal. I do plan to raise the shift points a little.

LS6'* would be the safe bet.....

one thing we can say is that you CANNOT use the stock springs espically if your raising the shift points

LS6 springs or CompCams 105# would both be suitable. LS6 springs have lower intalled seat pressure (90#), but ramp up to a higher seat pressure when the valve is fully open. Some people say the CompCams are easier on the valve seats, but It'* probably a matter of preference. You'll wear out your timing chain tensioner a bit faster no matter which spring you choose, so it'* completely up to you. But the way I see it, those are your two logical options. Any more seat pressure would be excessive for your current mods.

Well not saying it is the right thing to do, but i am running stock springs with ER Rockers (low milage though, only about 65K). That is on a 95 which shifts at 5950. I was told by several people that stock springs were good to just that 5950. But for relievablity just put the 105'* in and be done with it.

hawkjet,

I put ZZP'* SR rockers ("first generation" ER'* I bought used--similar ratios) on my stock springs/retainers about 2 weeks ago, and my 1-2 WOT shift is set at 5650 (although it actually completes at around 5900). Haven't broken a spring yet, but I definitely will not go any higher on the shift with these springs...besides this setup is only temporary until those new heads go on

I do believe the stock springs are giving me valve float at the high revs due to some things I see when analyzing my scans. Interestingly, I took the stock springs from those "other" heads and tested them on an Instron...they came out to an average 52 lbs at seat height...for a loss of over 25% spring strength over their intial rating--at only 30k miles. I wonder how much my 94k+ mile springs have lost?

Here'* an analysis I did of some spring/retainer options:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=75900

Ultimately, I'm going to go with the CompCams 105# springs. They have the desired high seat pressure, but lower spring rate than stockers (so potentially less wear). I already got some CompCams retainers, but I was strongly considering the Manley "thin" retainers from Intense, to even further reduce the potential for timing chain wear.

LS6 springs are cheap, and alot of people run them with the ER'*, but the horror stories I've read about what they can do to your timing chain put me off 'em quick.

When planning my build up... I asked many questions of a lot of people.

Businesses selling the parts, people with the parts installed, and most importantly..people that have broken parts.

Overall, the vast majority said to change the springs. Especially when you change your shift points and start revving more. You will easily get valve float and quite possibly break springs. Also to be considered are the valve seals. You may want to change them to add more clearance.

I used 105# because of the 97 heads I had at the time. Otherwise I would have automatically gone with LS6.

If you do them now while the parts are easily accessible, then you are in a position to not worry about changing shift points, and making other modifications.

You mean how quickly it can wear the timing chain damper right? That'* what I've read about.

I have read that the dampener and chain both get worn quicker. This is why some people decide to go with a better quality chain and or a double roller which would require the removal of the balance shaft.

For the costs...about $100 to change both chain and dampener...heck..it'* cheap.