Originally Posted by sandrock
Will the shop knock-out and install new block plugs as well?
Around here, knocking out the freeze and oil gallery plugs are included in the fee for cleaning the block, so I'm not going to waste any time doing it. The place I'm taking the block to will also put the new ones in and stake them in place (there'* a charge for the plugs, but it'* not out of line.) Like the LT1 motor they did for me a few months ago, Frank will just hand me the oil galley plugs and I'll put them in myself. I'll let his boys put the water jacket plugs in for me.
Same goes for the cam bearings, since they can drive the new ones in properly. The cam bearings are in the main webs that go across the block at each main cap. To install them, start by putting the block up on it'* bellhousing flange. The tool to install the bearings is a long steel rod with a machined aluminum cap. Set a cam bearing in place, starting at the rearmost bearing, and use the tool to drive the cam bearing in place. The tool keeps the bearing square to it'* pocket as it is driven in. You also have to line up the oil feed hole in the bearings to the oil passage in the block.
I didn't see the cleanout plug on the side of the block, but now that I know it'* there, I'll go remove it. You find these on most motors. The internal passages are small and need to be machined at the factory with drills. As a result, a pipe plug(*) needs to go in to seal up the passage.
Looking at the main bearing shells, you can see there are two holes drilled in each along with a groove. One hole feeds oil into the crank journal. the other feeds oil back up to the cam bearings. In the crankshaft there are holes drilled at angles between the main journals and the crank journals. These feed oil from the mains out to the rod bearings. Any excess oil at this point will bleed out of the rod bearings and get slung around inside the block. A fair amount of it will also get shoved by centripital acceleration up the connecting rod and end up lubricating the wrist pin and pooling in the underside of the piston crown. That oil will pass through the oil control rings in the piston and lubricate the cylinder bores.
The oiling system is pretty complicated, so yes, as James mentioned you need to clean the passages out. A rifle cleaning brush is going to be used extensively to clean out the passages.
While looking at the bearings, note that the #2 main cap bearing is different from the others. It has shoulders on it that wrap around the sides of the cap. This is the thrust bearing that keeps the crank from walking towards the front or rear of the block.