im have an 01 ssei an im tryin to find way of reducin the knock retard on the car oes anyone have any tips

For starters, I suspect your 3.0 pulley is gonna be a big problem.

Second I see Autolite 104 plugs in your sig. What are they gapped at? I'd suggest dropping down to 103'*, gapped at .050-.052".

Next, I see the timing commander. What is the advanced timing you are trying to achieve with 0* KR? I would suggest no more than 18-19* TOPS with the 3.4".

Also on the 3.0" pulley -IIRC most people require a full IC on top of your current mods to run that small of a pulley, if they are fine-tuned.

What size is your CIA (can it match the Federal CIA? LOL) 3"? 3.5" 4"?
I suggest a 4.0" along with a N* throttle body and LQ6 MAF sensor.

Aside from the headers what exhaust mods do you have?
I suggest a 3" high flow catalytic convertor and a high flow resonator. The rest of the stock exhaust should be fine unless you are looking for a different exhaust tone as the stock exhaust after the resonator was enough to get 8-ball into the 12'*. You might also consider an exhaust cutout, locate it before the catalytic convertor for full free-flow at the track.

Other than what you have and adding an intercooler you should look into a 3.2" pulley, maybe even a 3.3", a set of 42.5 lb injectors or at least getting a flow matched set from Fuel Injected Enterprises in Oregon ($100+ shipping).

Adding to OlBlueEyesBonne'* suggestions...

Get a scanner if you don't already have one (don't see one listed). That'* the first thing you need before you go any further with the car.

A 3.0 pulley is way too small. I could only run a 3.0 with a cam, ported blower and headers during the winter, otherwise it was a 3.2. Run with the 3.4 you have and advance the timing as long as there'* no KR. If you can add more than a few extra degrees then look into putting a 3.3 or 3.2 pulley on the car with stock timing and build up the timing from there.

For the exhaust, 3in all the way back will still probably be a bit too big and you'll loose some low end power. Going with a 3in downpipe will free up the flow a bit without killing the low end.

You might or might not need AL103s instead of the 104s. You're on the borderline for the plugs so it'* a tough call, some cars need colder plugs and others don't. I can get away with NGK TR6s on my setup but I'm intercooled.

i have a scan tool and it shows that the kr was like 3 to 5 on take off and like 3 at wot im just now sure it=f thats ok everyone is like it should have none before i done anymoddin to it had like 2 degree kr! my exhaust is a stock bonn. down pipe magnaflow hi flo converter with no resinator 3in all the way back to a single 3in 2.5in outlet flowmater and its almost perfectly straight all excempt for the curve to miss the battery box in the back seat! im lookin into the intense 42lb injector and fuel pump kit now though! thanks ill juust have to give it a try!

oh and sorry bout the repost my computer is being stupid i didnt see were the post was posted the first time it said that there was an errior sendin report!

I would have to agree. The 3.0 pulley is just plain too small. A 3.2 with your mods is still too small. I'm running an intercooler and don't have the balls to keep going down below 3.2 right now. I guess if you want new pistons pretty soon then that would be a good way to get them. I'm running the 103ARs right now and love them. Really help out the 00+ bonnies. I have found that for some reason our programming just creates more KR than the GP or Regal counter parts. It differs of course, but I have tuned and scanned several local 00+ Bonnies and GPs and I have a harder time with the Bonnie because it is a little different.

Now the other thing is when are you seeing the KR. You mentioned at launch, but does it go away through the RPM range and then return at a certain time. Could be a fueling issue without the 42.5'* and that small of a pulley for sure, but it could also be some needed tuning at the right place. For example on mine right now I run a 3.0 intercooled with 0KR all the way up to 5500 RPM in second before I get the KR, but then it takes off because my injectors and pump can't keep up and I'll spike to 3-4 instantly. So I'm adding bigger injectors and a new pump to compensate and hope that it clears out. But before I got to that point I had to go in and look over the different areas of the scan and get them all tweaked after hours and hours of looking through scans and retesting to get it just right. If you don't have them time or resources to do that, better to drop timing and pulleys until you get to 0KR.

Now take this with a grain of salt, because I'll get blasted by someone who doesn't read the whole post, but having a little KR isn't that big of deal, but only when it is random and occurs in small blips here and there. If you have having a straight KR problem from 0-whatever RPM or MPH then that is a problem, especially if it doesn't go away with timing change and pulley size increase.You don't want to have any KR at all for longevity of your motor. Plus we all know that when you are getting KR the PCM is pulling timing anyway so you aren't doing any good with a smaller pulley as it is.I would bet you a dollar I could beat you with a 3.4 pulley and more timing then with a 3.0 and KR.

I know it is old news, but for those out there just getting started I thought that it would be a good info. No amount of KR is "health" or "normal". You can live with it, but for how long? That'* the question. It took me a long time to get all of this down after starting to tune with it. I still only know about 1% or what is out there.

nice you make a good point i just got the car back out of the shop i took the 3.0 pulley off and went back up to the 3.4 till my fuel kit gets in. thanks for the input though i did listen to ya i took it off and now im runnin knock free im looking to the zzp intercooler kit and then i might get the balls to go back down with the smaller pulley! thanks

Good man. Your car thanks you. The SS intercooler so far is working well for me. We will see how it does this weekend with new injectors and a better pump. Keep in mind that you can't go any bigger than a stage II IC without significat hood mods and that we are limited with the heat exchanger because of room in the front and therefore limited efficiency without removing the A/C.

ill keep that in mind! i just got back from the shop and back to the 3/4 no kr my new intake deal works wonderfully the temp outside is 82 and the intake air temp is readin 66 drivin i have made a break through!