So here is what I've done....
Took a stock L67 series 2 TB and had it welded on the gasket surface and then decked down flush.
I don't know what year this TB is from, but I added the vacuum hookup for the modulator on the 97 and earlier tranny'*. All that was required was to knock a freeze plug out and drive a vac tube into the open hole.
I then mated the TB to an L36 UIM, traced the opening from the inside, and ground it out to look a little like this. I know that you can see pockets and such. The ones on the gasket surface are purely cosmetic and are not detrimental to the sealing of the gasket. The few you can see inside the TB are a end result of the welding. I could proceed to try and smooth them into nothingness, but that may end up in destroying the TB to blend them all.
And if you look inside, you can see the shaft is missing. I knocked the pin out of the shaft for the TPS, drove the shaft out of the TB entirely, and cut one half(minus a little on the edges) of the shaft out. The other side has the threads in it, so I left it alone. When reassembling the springs for the linkage, I turned the shaft 180* so that the plate has support behind it to take some load off of the screws at idle. I used a small grinding bit and knocked as much excess thread off of the screws as I could, but then that bit broke :( Counter-sunk screws will probably come in the future, but are unneccesary at this point in time. The small edges left on the shaft helped to line the plate up to it'* normal location.
A very basic and boring story, I know. Now let my put on my fire suit and release the demons to say "yay" or "nay!"
As a side note, the area after the plate was smoothed, as I noted a ridge being present originally. I used a 60 grit flap wheel, a 6" tree bur (overkill on the length) for grinding aluminum, a cutting wheel, and my excell mini die-grinder.