A few simple CAI questions
#1
A few simple CAI questions
I just got done installing my CAI on my car and have a few questions. One, is that my intake air temperature sensor is only 1-2" away from the exhaust manifold heat sheild. Is this a major concern? Can/Will the sensor be damaged? Secondly, Does it take the PCM some time to adjust to the new intake for maximum performance? I noticed better throttle response but at WOT I get barely better performance and the engine shifts sooner than it used to. (it now shifts at 5,900 RPM, it was shifting at 6,400 RPM at WOT before the intake.)
My intake can be seen in this thread:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=41885
Thirdly, does anyone have some easy tips on building a heat shield? I was told by Haro that you can just etch/score the plexiglass then snap it where you want it "cut." Is it really just this simple? I've never worked with it before. I would post in the northstar section but hardly anyone looks at that board. Thanks!
My intake can be seen in this thread:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=41885
Thirdly, does anyone have some easy tips on building a heat shield? I was told by Haro that you can just etch/score the plexiglass then snap it where you want it "cut." Is it really just this simple? I've never worked with it before. I would post in the northstar section but hardly anyone looks at that board. Thanks!
#2
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
I would consider plugging that hole you have the IAT in and moving if turther upstream into cooler air. Also insulate the pipe like Bill and Pat have to theirs. This way the exhaust temps don't heat the aluminum pipe and cause you higher temps.
On plexi, I've done extensive amounts of work with it as a homeowner/arcade game stuff. Score and snap works most of the time. However I've found a rotozip if available works miracles in cutting it w/o problems.
On plexi, I've done extensive amounts of work with it as a homeowner/arcade game stuff. Score and snap works most of the time. However I've found a rotozip if available works miracles in cutting it w/o problems.
#3
Thansk for the help Bill, I really appreciate it! I checked the temperature of the intake pipe after driving half an hour to get home and the pipe was totally cold. I let it sit for 10 minutes and checked it again... the pipe was very hot from the heat soak. As long as I'm driving it stays cold. it should benefit from the insulator on the first few inches of the pipe nearest the throttle body. I think I'll only insulate the pipe between the MAF sensor and the TB. The rest of it is rubber basically because I had to use 3 couplers for this setup. Here you can see how close the IAT sensor is to the manifold. There'* no where else on the pipe itself to mount it, or filter. Can it be mounted in the heat sheild near the filter? I'd think it'd work o.k. there too wouldn't it?
A. exhaust manifold crossover pipe
B. A.I.R. pump pipe (for emissions.) This pipe has cold air in it.
C. IAT sensor
D. MAF sensor.
A. exhaust manifold crossover pipe
B. A.I.R. pump pipe (for emissions.) This pipe has cold air in it.
C. IAT sensor
D. MAF sensor.
#4
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Depending on the filter I'd extend the iat and mount it in there. Or hit up a local parts store for grommets and drill into the pipe further down.
That is only if insulating doesn't help out as much as you'd like.
Looking like a nice clean job so far.
That is only if insulating doesn't help out as much as you'd like.
Looking like a nice clean job so far.
#6
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Correct me (please) if this is wrong, but keeping the IAT somewhat close to its original location keeps the IAT readings accurate. I see no benefit to installing the IAT any farther upstream- first I am inclined to believe the IAT reading would have to be drastically different to see any performance gain and second, giving accurate values on the incoming air charge temperature would allow the computer to properly do its job, providing optimal performance.
In my eyes, and feel free to offer up your own theories, moving your IAT farther upstream is on par with using one of the gimmick IAT simulator "chips" from eBay. The ONLY time this may not be the case is if indeed you were pulling air that was much much cooler through your intake piping, and you actually had the piping insulated heavily enough so that that air'* temp changed very little on its journey to the throttle body. And we all are aware of how high underhood temps can be on our cars.
#7
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
You want the IAT to be unaffected by engine bay heat if at all possible. The O2 sensor can figure it out from there.
There'* no way to 'trick' the IAT for any longer than 5 minutes or so. Keeping it protected makes it'* readings more consistent.
There'* no way to 'trick' the IAT for any longer than 5 minutes or so. Keeping it protected makes it'* readings more consistent.
#8
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moving it up the intake is only making it POTENTIALLY hotter....if you have a good insulated pipe, you should not have a problem....it is most common to have the IAT in the Filter or close to the filter to get the lowest air temp reading possible...that is why a heatshield is alos beneficial......i believe that Custom didnt want hte IAT up there but that is where the hole in the pipe was
#9
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
i believe that Custom didnt want hte IAT up there but that is where the hole in the pipe was
As for the heat shield, are there universal shields that would work, or is this something that would have to be fabricated myself? If it'* the latter it probably won't be good. I'm no where near an engineer and will never claim to be. I'll be totally amazed myself If I can make a halfway decent looking heat sheild around the filter.
#10
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
A simple bent piece of sheet metal would help, or a TB heatshield modified. Try www.grandprixstore.com I have their TB heatshield modified to fit a Series 1. It should protect the IAT nicely if you can find somewhere to attach it.