I got it on my valve covers now. No pics yet...I was busy trying to diagnose, er, something else

BUT...I will say this...

That stuff works. Just on the hand testing, I coated one with the stuff, the other I left uncoated. Followed the suggested baking cycle for the paint, and afterwards I placed both under my "sun in a box" worklight. The uncoated cover was warm. Coated? Much cooler.

Keep in mind I have those aluminum F-body covers. Originally they were bead-blasted and painted wth high-temp clear. Got sick of looking at them with yellowed-clear, so I soaked them, sanded, washed, and painted.

They look good too.

Now imagine it with constant airflow over it. That'* why I'm keeping my SC cooling duct. The hood vents and fan override make it even better.

WCBF bred a few believers. Matt was STUNNED at how quickly my SC cooled down compared to all others, in spite of the fact that I was spinning it harder and faster than anyone else.

All SC'* were about the same temp when we hit the pits, but mine cooled down nearly TWICE as fast.

It works. My original test posted wasn't with two seperate parts, and I never tested it with air flow over it. Just static cooling at ambient temps, and it still out-performed the other coatings and bare aluminum.


Aluminum valve covers on the left, OEM fiberglass on the right (testing for coating wrinkle only).

Don't do this to OEM valve covers though. The fiberglass insulates, and no coating in the world will overcome that. It'* purely cosmetic on those. Follow my recipe in the other topic to the letter to get consistent results and good, fine, dense wrinkle patterns. It'* the amount of wrinkles that makes it work.

Brad, post up some pics of yours. Did my recipe work well for you?

Well enough. The uniformity isn't as good as I was aiming for, but only under heavy scrutiny would someone be able to spot that.

To aid in adhesion, I "primed" with a few light coats of Krylon BBQ grill paint. That was the only difference to your recipe. Unknown whether it will harm or hurt (I will run the front cover on the SSE for the time being as a test), but it isn't like this can't be done again. Aircraft stripper works absolute wonders, esp. on aluminum

Doesn't do jack squat to supercharger coatings though.

For a first time application, it didn't come out too bad at all

Looks damn good.

I may very well recoat it when I get a few extra minutes in my day. It came out well enough to leave them alone, but I would like at least another coat or two on them.

Good work. I'm definitely going to take a crack at this on my ported gen3 housing.

Magic coating? No offense but it looks the same as a $5 can of Krylon wrinkle which has been used on valve covers since the '60s. Am I missing something? Hard to clean too.
Grant

The difference is that I proved it'* effectiveness for use on superchargers last year. For the simple reason that we already knew the vast majority of coatings out there are bad for performance.

For the record, I've never seen it used on car parts before this except for part of a motorcycle cylinder head once. And that was after I had been testing it for over a year.

I chose the coating simply based on physical science and well-thought theory. Not based on other'* experiences.

Looks great! Even if it didn't do anything for heat transfer, it'* worth it just for looks!