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i made my intake pipe for the cost of a filter

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Old 04-26-2005, 12:48 AM
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Default i made my intake pipe for the cost of a filter

i'll try to get pics if people need them. i wanted to read the 203 posts about the rice pipe but who has time. i scavenged a piece of pickup truck 3" exaust pipe at the local exaust shop. it was bent just like the pipes in the pics i see. it is a little heavier thought i can assume. i then cut it to size. instead of buying a coupler i used the stock rubber adapter from the tb to air box.cut it down and used the factory clamps to adapt the tb to pipe. a friend gave me the filter a while ago so it was free. i now drilled a hole for the intake temp sensor and used a drilltip screcw and fastened it in. the whole process was free and took about 30 minuts. the finish doent't match my paint though but i think i'll live with it.
Old 04-26-2005, 07:17 AM
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Sweet, sounds like a good project. I woulda done something similar, but I don't have the cone filter, nor do I wanna pay for it after getting my panel filter awhile back. Good luck and have fun.
Old 04-26-2005, 08:04 AM
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So you used the factory accordian tube? That'* a big no-no. That is one of the problems with the factory airbox.. it creates turbulance, which limits flow and all that good stuff.

Other than that, that is a damn good idea. What kind of filter did you use?


-justin
Old 04-26-2005, 09:10 AM
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It sounds like you used the end of the stock tube, which is smooth, if I remember. Not a bad idea.
Old 04-26-2005, 10:24 AM
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Sounds good to me, too. That'* the way I read it. Are you going to insulate the pipe with something? I'd reccommend it, especially since it'* exhaust pipe. PICS!
Old 04-26-2005, 10:32 AM
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I have seen a lot of people using 3" pvc and a pvc elbow for intakes on Caprice/Impala forums. Why hasn't anyone used that on the bonnevilles? I have some here, and planned to do the Caprice a while back, but never did. I am going to do the Bonneville though. I'll need to get the K&N , elbow, and a rubber coupler with clamps..
Old 04-26-2005, 10:40 AM
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Do NOT use a rubber coupler from Home Depot. When the engine rocks under torque, your filter will rise up and impact the under side of the hood insulator, tranferring all the flex force to the Throttle body and UIM. Use a FLEXIBLE reducer.

The reason nobody uses PVC here:
1. It gets heatsoaked very rapidly.
2. Joints and splices inside create turbulence.
3. It'* very flammable.
4. It relaxes it'* shape under high engine bay temps.
5. It looks ghetto.


See the piece in my signature pointing at my supercharger? That'* coming from a ramair duct under the front airdam for external SC cooling. Works great, reduces temps on the blower by 10° above 30 mph. But the angle is alot less than it used to be. It was a PVC shaped elbow when it started, but the heat in the engine bay relaxed it, so I had to move it farther to the passenger side than it originally was to keep it blowing on the supercharger.
Old 04-26-2005, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by willwren
Do NOT use a rubber coupler from Home Depot. When the engine rocks under torque, your filter will rise up and impact the under side of the hood insulator, tranferring all the flex force to the Throttle body and UIM. Use a FLEXIBLE reducer.

The reason nobody uses PVC here:
1. It gets heatsoaked very rapidly.
2. Joints and splices inside create turbulence.
3. It'* very flammable.
4. It relaxes it'* shape under high engine bay temps.
5. It looks ghetto.


See the piece in my signature pointing at my supercharger? That'* coming from a ramair duct under the front airdam for external SC cooling. Works great, reduces temps on the blower by 10° above 30 mph. But the angle is alot less than it used to be. It was a PVC shaped elbow when it started, but the heat in the engine bay relaxed it, so I had to move it farther to the passenger side than it originally was to keep it blowing on the supercharger.
I can agree with most of what you've said. They rough them up with sand paper and paint them, so, they don't look ghetto. I don't think flamability is a real issue. And, I'm guessing the engine bay must be hotter than a B-Body car, since I've never heard of one losing it'* shape before. I don't see a pic of yours that got too hot, but i'm going to assume it'* in a spot where there'* a bit more heat.

Most likely, I'll go with the civic rice pipe in light of your suggestions. I'm new to modding the Bonne'*
Old 04-26-2005, 11:07 AM
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The intake pipe is going to be right above your crossover pipe for the exhaust. Flash point of PVC is a mere 204° F. Think about it

In my sig pic below (don't click on it) you see the grayish duct curving towards the SC from the radiator support? That'* the one. It used to be curved more.

Here'* the flexing I talked about, and while you watch it, imagine the TB being attached to an L27 or L36 Plastic upper intake manifold. No broken mounts, car in D, foot on brake, rev to 3000 rpm'*:

http://www.williamwren.com/flex.mpg
Old 04-26-2005, 11:13 AM
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Admitedly, I currently have a PVC intake. I've got the little PVC intake kit from pfyc.com, and it was short, so I got another 45* from Lowes, put a piece of 3.5" pipe in it as a coupler, and filled the gaps with PVC glue. It'* really smooth, but extremely ghetto looking. It also got heatsoak like no other. I've insulated the hell out of it, and it looks ghetto thrown together. Shape wise, I was extremely happy. It put the filter right between the washer bottle and radator hose, almost touching the radiator support, as far forward as I was comfortable with. Just avoids the ELC compressor also. Best place for a filter in car with double washer bottle. The only deformation I've seen is the flange that the filter clamps to has given just a little bit from pressure due to the hose clamp.

But, right now I am working on the rice pipe to make a prettier intake.


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