First scan after build
#22
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How can the IPWs and trims be in agreement with such low O2 values? I think something else is amiss here. Isn't the O2 a big player in the tuning equation? Why wouldn't it be adding more fuel?
FWIW, when I did my cam the LTFTs were pegged at the maximum lean value because my tune wasn't giving enough fuel. It wasn't my fuel pump at all. I added an AFC and everything started to shape up as we dialed it in. I wouldn't assume the fuel pump is bad until it is tested and proven to be junk. You might just need some kind of fueling adjustment. I know the IPWs and trims are looking good, but I don't understand how those values can coexist with such low O2s. Seems weird to me.
FWIW, when I did my cam the LTFTs were pegged at the maximum lean value because my tune wasn't giving enough fuel. It wasn't my fuel pump at all. I added an AFC and everything started to shape up as we dialed it in. I wouldn't assume the fuel pump is bad until it is tested and proven to be junk. You might just need some kind of fueling adjustment. I know the IPWs and trims are looking good, but I don't understand how those values can coexist with such low O2s. Seems weird to me.
#24
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Tuning based on the narrowband is not a great idea. It is erratic and changes with heat. You should tune your car with a wideband sensor either on the street or preferably on a dyno. You should also put a fuel pressure gauge on the car to test the fuel pump. N/A cars can run leaner than boosted cars and you should probably shoot for a 12.5-12.8 A/F ratio.
#25
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the throttle % is my fault... i kept putting 100 in excel and it was defaulting to a 1 so i left it. As for the put, i am going high flow because i never know. I am paying probably half what most guys pay for a stock replacement.
As for the cam.... I was very worried i was not going to be able to drive the car until i got a custom chip, and so far besides the knock issue it has been perfect
As for the cam.... I was very worried i was not going to be able to drive the car until i got a custom chip, and so far besides the knock issue it has been perfect
#26
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Originally Posted by Rogue
Tuning based on the narrowband is not a great idea. It is erratic and changes with heat. You should tune your car with a wideband sensor either on the street or preferably on a dyno. You should also put a fuel pressure gauge on the car to test the fuel pump. N/A cars can run leaner than boosted cars and you should probably shoot for a 12.5-12.8 A/F ratio.
As for putting the FP gauge on the car... i am definently going to before i by a pump. But i know for a fact the fuel pump is old and makes a pretty loud whining noise (kinda sounds whining). Plus so far all the data i ahve collected seems to point to the fuel pump, but i will check it before i buy
#27
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Do check that fuel pressure before you buy... If your pump sounds anything like mine did... I could actually hear it inside the car with the stereo turned off... It was moaning bad... I was getting as low as 32PSI.... I replaced it with a new AC Delco unit And got the proper reading afterwords...
But get a Gage on there and make certain that you fall into the 48-55 Psi range, with full vac you may hit 45 or so... Blip the throttle and it should go to the 50'* and keep up with demand..
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But get a Gage on there and make certain that you fall into the 48-55 Psi range, with full vac you may hit 45 or so... Blip the throttle and it should go to the 50'* and keep up with demand..
I am interested in what you are doing... Watching you closely
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