I got my Mini AFC in the mail yesterday and started to play around with it.
I tried the regular mode where you just increase the MAF signal by a certan percent the whole time, and i tried the enhanced mode too. This allows you to increase the signal by diffrent precents along the rpm band. So you can kinda create your own fuel curve. This is pretty damn cool.
In regular mode, i increased the overall signal and there was too much fuel at idle which made it stall. In enhanced mode, i increased the signal by incriments of 1 from 100% to 112 %. [there'* 13 levels for 1 to 13 kHz]. This prevents it stalling out and gives me more fuel as the rpms increase.
This seems like it solved my problem, but i've only got to drive it around for 25 mins. I still need a scan tool to tune it right. I thought i would just increase it a small amount to see if it would help. (i'm impatient).

Does anyone else have any experience with this? Or can anyone with experience using this give me some pointers?

Refresh my memory....what was your problem that caused you to buy the AFC calibrator, and why are you considering injectors?

Sure.

Well, I have a bunch of mods that bring much more air into the engine but nothing to increase the fuel. I understand that the computer is sopose to adjust the fuel according to the amount of air but i think that my computer is over whelmed.

My problem is when my car gets hot, my computer pulls more and more timing as the rpms increase. (KR).

Now my logic is that I'm running lean which would cause the engine to run hotter and have preignition (i can feel that). Then the knock sensor would pick that up and pull timing. Now when my engine is cold, the block temp prevents preigniton as much and the intake air is also colder which gives more fuel. This would explain why it'* ok when the engine is cold.

I've been reading alot about how OBD1 computers/knock sensors are more prone to fasle knock.

This is why i think i need more fuel. I'm getting the injectors because i should be making power close to the L67.

The AFC won't give you any power. It'll adapt for mods, but I don't see mods that require it. The injectors won't deliver more fuel either, and your stock injectors are easily capable of supporting your current mods.

An AFC would help you tune if you had a larger TB and smaller pulley on a SC car, but you still have the O2 sensor to contend with, and you can't fool that.

I'm personally don't feel the AFC will gain you anything, and I know the injectors won't.

I didn't buy the afc to give me more power. I bought it to tune the car.
I wasn't expecting any huge 'power gains'.
The injectors made sense to me because i should be making close to the same power as the L67 and they have low miles on them.
I'm, more than anything else, trying to solve a problem that so far no one could help me with.
So i'm testing my own ideas and so far it'* working.

Do you have any suggestions on how to get rid of my KR when my car gets hot?

Remove your Knock sensors, and re-install them according to the FSM, including the goop they recommend for the threads. A loose knock sensor can cause false knock. Do you have a scantool? What temps/conditions are you getting knock? 5° of knock on a hot day is quite normal.

The scan tool was saying 2-4-6-8 degrees as the rpms went up. the coolant temp as 200 degrees. The outside temp was 85-90, i believe.
The scan tool also threw a misfire code.

I'll definatley check out re installing the knock sensors.

Also have you heard of placing a small resistor inline with the knock sensor? I've read that this helps reduce false knock but is enough to still protect your engine.

Have you read the thread just started by DrJay about the injectors? I guess some have been actually trading down unknowingly.

Yep. The ones i have now are 19 lb i think and the L67 are 36 lb i think. I'm not going backwards.

Even with your mods, you're not moving the air I'm moving with my Series 1 L67. So from a strictly performance standpoint, the AFC won't do you any good. I still don't see enough to support larger injectors, so I'd like to see DrJay in on this one. He knows a bit more than me on that score.

I'd really be tickled to see this problem fixed, making the AFC calibrator unnecessary. I don't think 2-8° of knock is out of the question at those temps, but I'm not as familiar with the L36 as some are. The resistor trick is something I'd be interested in hearing more about. I'd be really curious to see you install it only in the rear, and see if that solves your problem. I'd bet most of your knock is coming from the rear bank.