Back again. The trip to Skycrafters in Orlando did not yield any ZIF sockets, but they did have some regular 28pin sockets. So, a few dollars lighter in the wallet, I returned home with a few and can make a little more progress.

Took a few of the CalProm'* and installed sockets on them in place of the EPROM. The sockets were of the machined pin variety, which don't bend very well, so I had to file slots in the side of the CalProm carrier to get a soldering iron in and install them.

Here'* a finished one ready to use:



The socket fits low enough that even with an EPROM in the socket, the blue plastic cover will fit over the CalProm.

For EPROM chips, I'm going to be using all recycled ones. The chips removed from the CalProms along with a bunch of chips salvaged from old PC motherboards. If you find 286 or 386 motherboards, you are likely to find the same 27C256 EPROM chips in use as the boards BIOS. Just peel back the foil cover on the chip and take a peek at the part number. Old 486 motherboards usually have 27C512 EPROM chips on them. No good for this project, but it would be the same chip as found in the 93-95 L67 ECM'* and possibly the L27 N/A motor'* ECM as well.

To make a chip ready for use, I'll be running them through a UV Eprom Eraser. When exposed to ultra-violet light for a few minutes, all the transistors that make up the memory cells of the EPROM go to a logic high state (binary 1). That'* a blank EPROM ready for use...the value of every data byte in it is "11111111". When the chip is programmed on the EPROM burner, all the cells that need to be "0" are juiced with current, leaving the rest of the bits alone. Do you really need to know this? Probably not. But before you program an EPROM with the new software for the car, be sure to blank check it on your burner to make sure there isn't any stray data on it...who knows what the car will do with some random screwed up bits in it'* brains.

Ok, enough with the soldering iron and electrical engineering speak...(Honest, the next time I pick up a soldering iron in this project will be to join together parts of the wiring harness to fit the new motor!)

Time to do the first test this weekend, I'm a little behind schedule, but I still need to make a few simple changes to the ASSK calibrator prom code to make sure the programming software is working correctly. What I'm going to do is alter the following values:

VSS Cutoff and resume values (the vehicle speed where the ECM turns off the injectors) from 115mph to their maximum values.

RPM Cutoff and resume values (the built in rev limiter) to raise it about 500 PRM over stock.

The fan temps, turn them on about 10 degrees lower than stock.

and last, the Speedometer calibration values. Thanks to the influx of motorcyclists around Daytona, there'* a lot of radar signs around. I've passed by a few and noticed that the indicated speed on the speedometer is higher than the true vehicle speed by about 3 mph at 60, so I'll make a little adjustment and run past the same signs again to see if the speedometer is running closer to true speed. This is probably due to the small difference in tire diameters.

Curt, are you going to name this beast when complete?

Yes, "Divorce" is the first name that comes to mind

Ok, up into the attic and found the eraser that works!

Here'* the EPROMs being erased, 4 at a time. The little mica window on the EPROM rests over a UV light inside the eraser. Close the cover, flip the switch, and set the egg timer for 10 minutes.




Next, here'* a different EPROM reader/burner. This one is a Willem "home brew" from overseas. It'* cheap on EBay, work reasonably well, but are not very user friendly.



Here'* the screen shot of the software in use while blank checking an EPROM to see that it'* ready to be reused.

Ok, stack of blank eproms in hand, time to make up the first test CalProm.

I took the ASSK calibration, ran it through TunerCat and raised the RPM and VSS fuel cutoffs, lowered the fan on/off temps.

I did not mess with the VSS pulses per mile or speedometer calibration yet. I need to mess around with some number first to see what sort of change to make and in which direction.

Here'* the test calibration file:

http://clmartin.no-ip.org/90_Bonneville/ASSK_NA_V1.bin

http://clmartin.no-ip.org/90_Bonneville/ASSK_NA_V1.txt


To program it I used the last Eprom Burner I wanted to show y'all. It'* my personal choice for the "Gawd this thing is way too cool for it'* own good" title. It'* a Batronix BX32 from Germany. Nice case, easy to use software, and it works via only one USB cable to the PC...perfect for carrying on the road and making changes via a laptop.



and a shot of it'* software in use:




With that, the first test Calprom is ready to go slap into the car and test out.

If it works as expected, then there'* another green light in the project passed and I can move on to other tasks to get the '90 Bonneville ready for open heart surgery.

OK, first test pilot session is over. Results were a success.

TunerCat with the $5B map did as promised. The values changed in the following files worked correctly and did not induce any bizzare problems to the car. Integrator and BLM'* still within normal, no codes.

http://clmartin.no-ip.org/90_Bonneville/ASSK_NA_V1.bin

http://clmartin.no-ip.org/90_Bonneville/ASSK_NA_V1.txt

To test out the Calprom, I plugged it in and tried out the rev limits first. With the unmodified ASSK prom, at 5560 rpm on the scan tool (~6000 indicated on the dash tach) the engine would go into a stutter as the ECM cuts off the engine'* pulsewidth to the injectors.

With the new calprom in, I eased the engine rpm up to 5800 on the scantool. No cutout. That'* about as far as I am willing to push the stock valvertrain. If it behaves like other GM'* valve float will probably set in past 6000rpm.

The next test was a straight line acceleration. Took the car out to a really dead stretch of county road in West Volusia (My "secret test facility") and ran the car up through the gears at WOT. O2 values were the same as before .880 to .905. Car went past 127 on the scantool, effectively proving the VSS limit was gone. (Sorry, I didn't look down at the speedo on the dash, I know it reads higher than actual anyways...and I was more interested in staying on the road with quick glances at the scan tool...she gets awful light on her feet past 100mph)

So, all in all, phase one of the mission is complete. I have all the tools I need to do the engine swap and subsequent tuning it will need to support it. Time to go out and give her a needed bath and clean the "love-bugs" off the nose.

Curt, when you get time, can you post a clearer pic of your IP? I have been looking for a cool, unobstrusive way to mount an oil pressure gauge and I see yours cut right in. THanks

Two wingnuts?? You have Will and Boosty tucked up under there?!?


I am following this thread with extreme curiosity. Just to reiterate here, what you're putting in is an L67, and not a blown L36, right?

Sure Glen, The instrument panel cut & paste thread has got the details of how I re-arranged the dash

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...805&highlight=

I've still got one more round gauge to install in the far right corner of the dash as well (got an A/F gauge to put in)

That is sortta correct. The motor going in was assembled as a spec 98 L67..even though it'* base block was from a F-Body L36. Using RPO'* to describe it is a bit of a misnomer when dealing with these motors...take an L36 down to a bare block, reassemble with substitute L67 rods, pistons, and heads and you und up with a L67...so what to call it? Is it a blown L36 or now an L67?

I guess what I'm getting at is that I really don't want to call it a L67 for fear of misleading anyone, but it'* the closest recognizable rpo code for what I assembled.

Here'* the thread where the motor was created:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...984&highlight=

While on the subject of gauges...here'* tonights project:



It'* a Summit Air/Fuel ratio gauge. It was actually pretty easy to install in that location. The gauge housing had to be cut in half so it was shallow enough to fit inside the instrument panel without poking through the dash. Not a big deal, took a razor saw to the housing, lopped off the end, then glued the gauge together and into the panel.