What'* the most noticable/best mods to do with a budget of around $500 when spring comes around? I don't want to take away power from some areas to add it elsewhere, such as decreasing low end horsepower to increase high rev horespower. Just looking to add hp all the way through the power band if possible or at least not take away from certain areas.

***It also can't be an obvious void to my warranty such as adding a supercharger or be something that a shop would blame for causing a repair and then not being covered by the warranty.*****

Welp, the starting point on a limited budget would be items that are not in and of themselves power adders, more like setting the stage for a future mod that will bump it up a bit.

Short list: Better air filter and less restrictive ductwork. Colder than stock T-stat. Reprogram the PCM for a slightly richer mixture. Add a transmission cooler. Carry out all needed repairs to the rest of the system (plugs, wires, PCV valve, fluid changes for the SC / transmission / Power Steering Pump / Brake system, etc....you know, the boring stuff that gets neglected all the time.)

That will run through about $500 pretty quick and get the car in top running condition for the next phase (when the warranty period expires)

Does your $500 budget include labor, or are you DIY?

That being said, as you say you are under warranty, I would advise only things that can be replaced with the original stock items quickly and easily. That pretty much limits you to intake mods (which I am not convinced are needed on an n/a engine anyway, at least without significant other mods first).

IMO, the VERY BEST use of your $500 would be a tuner.

For $500,
ZZP ER Rockers
PEMs from one of the vendors and/or highflow cat (The budget only really alows for either or)
CAI or FWI

Whats a PEM CAI and FWI?

Oh, and I doubt I'll ever be adding a supercharger to this car, I'd just like to get the maximum performance from the NA 3800. I used to be able to spin the wheels pretty good with my old lumina (92) with only a 3.1 and 140hp and it seems like I'm at a loss with the 3800 in the Bonneville.

And if it involves taking the engine apart than I'm not doing it myself due to the warranty, so the 500 would have to include labor if it involved taking the engine apart.

~Dave

PEM = Ported Exhaust Manifolds, This is DIY or buy a set already modded.

CAI = Cold Air Induction
FWI = Fenderwell Intake

Both of these aim to move air through the engine better.


http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=91

Is it even worth intake mods on an NA engine? And for the fenderwall intake, I'd worry about water getting in the engine too much, it happened to my friends sunfire and flooded the engine.

Chip or tuner, and what would I alter with the tuner (just shift points?) and would any alterations with a tuner hurt the engine at all? I've read that a richer mix has no impact on the cars because the computer will just re-mix it to the proper levels so there'* no way to trick it.

SEVERAL cars run FWI'* with no ill effect. As long as you don't go offroading through puddles and submerge the front half of your car in water you should be fine. '92-'99 cars might consider adding more material to make a better splash guard though since it is a little more open than the 2000'*. Several N/A'd cars run performance PCM'* that do a lot more than just change shift points. Coupled with rockers/cam or other mods they're great.

Well, that'* what tuning does, alters the PCM'* idea of what "Normal" is by changing it'* fuel and ignition maps. I'm not talking about some of the snake-oil gizmos being hawked that are supposed to trick the PCM, I mean actually altering the PCM'* software AFTER you have made some modification to take advantage of what was done.

Good, simple mods like T-stats and air filters let the motor run a little better and cooler. Usually they fall into the range of what the PCM thinks is "Normal" for the motor. Occasionally they put the motor outside the range of what the stock map thinks is normal (And GM'* ideal of "good" includes a mixture that is on the lean side for emissions purposes) so a little alteration to the fuel and ignition tables is in order to take advantage of the changes made to the motor.

More intensive mods like headers, cams, cylinder head work, etc, if done right, can really increase the airflow into the motor and do need alterations to the PCM to get the most out of them.

So, while the car is under warranty, now is the time to see what the car is doing in near stock trim, so you'll have a better understanding of what'* going to happen when you make changes. Even a stock PCM'* software can be altered to pick up a little bit on a stock motor. The software was written for an "Average" production motor...not your specific example of the type.

A FWI is a plug 'n play zero-risk mod for a 2000 or newer. With a little attention to detail and a splash guard for insurance, it'll work well for an 87-99, but it'* really not a practical investment for the smaller TB'* on the 87-91, 92-94 L27, or the 92/93 L67. The throttle shaft/TB bore is significantly smaller than the 3.5" FWI tubing, and you could potentially lose velocity and laminar flow, hurting performance. For these smaller TB'*, consider a custom 3" FWI.

For the 94/95 L67'*, and all L36'* and S2 L67'*, the 3.5" should flow well assuming you have supporting mods.