It'* cheaper to get drilled/slotted rotors than really good slotted ones. I see that this conversation is heading towards figuring out if the drilled/slotted cheaper rotors can long last enough so that it makes sense to save money by not buying the properly slotted rotors. Cliffnote seekers should lead the "last paragraph".
There'* one picture here from the links above:
That picture shows a cracked slotted rotor, and it'* not from a "ricer" by definition. Some guy who hopefully knows how to drive well and who takes care of his car actually cracked a slotted rotor. From all the reading here (thanks clm2112!!!!
), it should be evident that the cracked slotted rotor probably broke in a special case scenario unlike the more common ones, like everyday driving, in which drilled rotors crack.
Warning: The following paragraph does not condone the described action. If you hand drill your own rotors, you are a menace to driving society and passers by.
I know a guy who hand drills his own OE rotors and has O'Reilly Auto Parts turn them. This is a horrible idea by any way of looking at it, but he has actually never had his rotors break (on his base model Talon with a spolier, racing seats, and tint). I'm not saying there aren't cracks. There probably are some, but I didn't take a closer look. Maybe it'* just that he has a light car, and perhaps it'* that he has the oddest luck ever known to man. Now, the point of this paragraph is to show that even the worst case of drilled rotors may not end up in a broken rotor. That doesn't mean drilled rotors are all right, though. Not by far.
As it'* been said, drilled rotors were conceptualized as single use rotors simply to escape melting the brakes at 200mph. For the everyday driving that Bonnevilles do, there'* no true reason to have drilled rotors. With danthurs' rotors, air is possibly compressed in the little slots, and that probably "imitates" escaping gases. No proper testing has ever been done, but some think he has improved braking from new brakes while I believe it'* because of gases "escaping" into the slots rather than being squished against a flat surface, as they would be with OE rotors.
1337ssei is my homie G dawg from the hood and whatnot, and I think his brakes are awesome. His car stops great. His rotors haven't cracked, nor have they warped. This is probably the more common outcome for all who buy drilled/slotted rotors rather than slotted ones. The failure rate one might imagine from reading all the above from willwren and clm2112 is probably higher than what it is in reality. Also, a crack in a drilled rotor does not necessarily need to break apart and cause bad braking. Having said that, I recognize that drilled rotors are a potential threat to safety and should not be used (often).
This is the so-called Last Paragraph
While any rotor can crack, it'* rare. We see that drilled rotors crack far more often, and the cracks are actually caused because the drilled rotors aren't made properly. Most people who have drilled rotors never experience any danger while driving like a rotor breaking off or something of the sort. Regardless, drilled rotors crack at the places where they're drilled and do crack more often than the currently evidenced, properly manufactured, one and only cracked slotted rotor. If you want to run cross drilled rotors, you can
, but you increase the chance of something bad happening. The chances of said wrong occurrence are higher than getting hit by a plane, maybe. Even if you do plan on checking for cracks before every time you drive, you never know if there will be emergencies in which you won't have a choice but to go without checking the rotors, and what happens if they break then?
Both of my Bonnevilles have OE rotors. Link coming soon. I like full rotors, but look to slotted ones for the next step up.