i got some too. all the way around with ceramic pads. no complaints. very good stopping power. $180 for the set off Ebay(rotors and pads). its cheaper and better then OEM, IMO.only got pics on myspace tho.... http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...lbumId=1236093

I mean its fine to have an opinion on what rotors you want to use and its your choice.
However, I think some of you guys should use drilled/slotted before you put them down.
I love these rotors and when I took them off earlier this year there was 0 cracking. I drive my car every day and to the track so It'* not like they don't get used.
It sounds like a rotor coming apart would be really bad but I see no more chance on these than on oem brakes.

This isn't an 'opinion' as you put it. There'* hard facts and good evidence out there to support it. Research it yourself. Some of the links provided above are great reading.

We frown on anything that sacrifices safety or is a waste of money on this Forum. It'* against our goals and the reasons we're here.

I'm going to be installing some Bendix "Street hp" drilled/slotted rotors this weekend (with CT-3 pads):
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...96829&start=34

(That whole thread is some good reading on brakes, in my humble opinion )

I never would have spent money on drilled rotors (slotted, maybe); but since I get to try them free, what the heck.

I will be posting my results with these rotors.

I wouldn't dare putting drilled rotors on a 92-99. The brakes are undersized enough already.

Now the 00-05s? Not sure, but I surely wouldn't recommend drilled rotors. According to the the records of the 87 BMW 325is I owned, the original owner was replacing drilled rotors on the car every 6 months.

I'm with most people here from experience. Slotted rotors that go to the edge are GREAT for stopping power (if you go to the track a lot, get a set!), but cross-drilling is a bad idea.

I really don't understand why so many in the "tuner" compact market go for these because they seem so unsafe, but I assume they know something I don't about their cars.

Slotted to the edge = awesome
Cross drilled = scary

I did see the cracks on the drilled but the power slots on that page also had cracks.
My rotors show NO signs of either of these. In my individual "test" they held up more than fine and stop better than oem. thats what I was looking for. I think it more depends on the quality of the brake rotors than anything

I use them all the time...on motorcycles, but I also understand and agree with willren and the rest that warn others to be very carefull about the use of non-standard rotors in the brake system.

There are two primary considerations from my point of view: 1. The material they are made from. 2. does my driving needs warrant something more exotic.

The stock rotors and oem replacements are CAST metal. And while you may not be able to see it on the surface, all cast metal has cracks within it. If the crack are very tiny, and stay inside the surface of the metal, the world will keep spining and everything will be cool and fruity. As soon as you start drilling holes and cutting slots into the rotor surface, you run the risk of bringing one of the cracks to the surface or inducing more cracks by changing the internal stresses within the casting. Repeated heat cycling of the rotors during use can also play "connect the dots" with the internal cracks. End result can be a very large chunk of rotor comming off at the most inappropriate moments.

Again, I use drilled and slotted rotors all the time on motorcycles...they are not cast metal. They are either forged steel or cut from steel plate. Internally the metal has less stresses and is more uniform in grain and carbon content...few if any cracks are inside and they are less likely to crack during the repeated heat cycles. So, if you plan on using drilled and slotted rotors, good advice is to rethink your decision or at least make damn sure of the materials in them and who made them.

As to driving style...how hard and how often do you actually hammer the brakes? (You don't have to answer, the question is posed more to make you think about what you really do with the car daily.)

One lap around the roadcourse of Daytona takes a little over two minutes and has at minimum 6 braking points. An SCCA car is going to take the rotors from cold to glowing red hot about 3 times per minute and keep doing that for an hour or so. The cross drills and slots will keep the pads from glazing over and give the outgasses someplace to go. Of course, in that enviroment, the rotors are considered to be an expendable item..just like tires...when the day is done, that fancy machined steel marvel of CNC work is likely destined for the trashcan...or at least a complete inspection and resurfacing.

If they show the Rolex 24 on TV sometime, take a look at the sides of the cars as the race progresses....you will see the cars change color to a dirty brown/black from the brake rotor dust accumulating on the sides. Are you going to push the brakes that hard? Probably not.

Most people put trick rotors on their car for looks alone. There'* just something really cool about seeing all those machined holes behind the spokes. Some will actually make the brake systems performance on the street worse in the process. Few will ever realize the full capabilities of the stock brakes. Those who find those limits are probably best served by a new pair of stock rotors and a more agressive pad compound long before the need of fancy rotors.

Just some food for thought.

i noticed a great increase in stopping power with mine. and as all u guys saw my "SSEi pin the speedo" vid. i had my drilled and slotted rotors on then when i was slowing from 150mph. and i go to the track and i go out for data logs with HP Tuner alot. i understand the stand point of the guys against it but i guess i just dont have the "experience" yet. i always new the slots were for brake dust and gases and the holes were for cooling/heat distribution. and i have seen no probs with mine, yet, and am very happy.

It'* cheaper to get drilled/slotted rotors than really good slotted ones. I see that this conversation is heading towards figuring out if the drilled/slotted cheaper rotors can long last enough so that it makes sense to save money by not buying the properly slotted rotors. Cliffnote seekers should lead the "last paragraph".

There'* one picture here from the links above:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=14
That picture shows a cracked slotted rotor, and it'* not from a "ricer" by definition. Some guy who hopefully knows how to drive well and who takes care of his car actually cracked a slotted rotor. From all the reading here (thanks clm2112!!!! ), it should be evident that the cracked slotted rotor probably broke in a special case scenario unlike the more common ones, like everyday driving, in which drilled rotors crack.

Warning: The following paragraph does not condone the described action. If you hand drill your own rotors, you are a menace to driving society and passers by.
I know a guy who hand drills his own OE rotors and has O'Reilly Auto Parts turn them. This is a horrible idea by any way of looking at it, but he has actually never had his rotors break (on his base model Talon with a spolier, racing seats, and tint). I'm not saying there aren't cracks. There probably are some, but I didn't take a closer look. Maybe it'* just that he has a light car, and perhaps it'* that he has the oddest luck ever known to man. Now, the point of this paragraph is to show that even the worst case of drilled rotors may not end up in a broken rotor. That doesn't mean drilled rotors are all right, though. Not by far.

As it'* been said, drilled rotors were conceptualized as single use rotors simply to escape melting the brakes at 200mph. For the everyday driving that Bonnevilles do, there'* no true reason to have drilled rotors. With danthurs' rotors, air is possibly compressed in the little slots, and that probably "imitates" escaping gases. No proper testing has ever been done, but some think he has improved braking from new brakes while I believe it'* because of gases "escaping" into the slots rather than being squished against a flat surface, as they would be with OE rotors.

1337ssei is my homie G dawg from the hood and whatnot, and I think his brakes are awesome. His car stops great. His rotors haven't cracked, nor have they warped. This is probably the more common outcome for all who buy drilled/slotted rotors rather than slotted ones. The failure rate one might imagine from reading all the above from willwren and clm2112 is probably higher than what it is in reality. Also, a crack in a drilled rotor does not necessarily need to break apart and cause bad braking. Having said that, I recognize that drilled rotors are a potential threat to safety and should not be used (often).

This is the so-called Last Paragraph
While any rotor can crack, it'* rare. We see that drilled rotors crack far more often, and the cracks are actually caused because the drilled rotors aren't made properly. Most people who have drilled rotors never experience any danger while driving like a rotor breaking off or something of the sort. Regardless, drilled rotors crack at the places where they're drilled and do crack more often than the currently evidenced, properly manufactured, one and only cracked slotted rotor. If you want to run cross drilled rotors, you can, but you increase the chance of something bad happening. The chances of said wrong occurrence are higher than getting hit by a plane, maybe. Even if you do plan on checking for cracks before every time you drive, you never know if there will be emergencies in which you won't have a choice but to go without checking the rotors, and what happens if they break then?

Both of my Bonnevilles have OE rotors. Link coming soon. I like full rotors, but look to slotted ones for the next step up.