Im buying a turbo this weekend from the 3.8 grand national. i know im going to have to get my exhaust custom made and i can probally run about 5 pounds of boost safely with my engine im just wondering if anyone knows if this turbo will work good with my engine and what im going to need to do this project.

Thanks alot
jason

Well, you know it'* gonna be suited for your displacement. And your compression ratio is ok for boost too. Yah, you'll need exhaust manis, PCM, I don't know what else. PM Merlin91/97 (or something like that, I can't remember his SN exactly.)

PCM is going to be the biggest thing other then fabing up ht e EM'* and DP. With a turbo make sure that your fuel system is up to par... Larger injectors and prolly higher flow fuel pump.

im going to be running a remote mount setup where the turbo is mounted instead of the muffler. it takes away the need for an intercooler and i wont have to cut or modify the exhaust manifold.

So far i know im going to have to buy the boost controller. the blow off valve. and an electric
oil pump and have it installed. I was only told i could safely run 5 pounds of boost and the computer will compensate for it is that true if so i will only run 5 pounds of boost to start off and then when i want to add more i will i will get a custom burn computer for the car.

You might want to make sure what the inlet size of that turbo is, and re-think the 3" exhaust you have on that car. 3" is killing you. Most L67'* don't run 3" exhaust, even over 10psi.

I don't know if a 3" pipe on a turbo would be all that bad. Free exhaust flow helps the turbo, right? Maybe 3" would kill velocity... which would be bad... I don't know which way to go on that.

If it were me, I'd still put an intercooler somewhere. The cooler the better.

You may, may, outflow the stock MAF sensor. Depending on if a 92 NA did or did not have the same sensor as the 92 L67.

3" wouldn't be bad at all if it was a normal turbo setup but he is talking a remote turbo setup. I'm not sure what would be good or bad in that setup. I do know that a remote setup is very tricky to setup and get everything sized right. If it ever happens well have to see some pics.

That may work in a remote setup. Stock GN'* were designed to produce 2-3 times the boost you are looking for, so the A/R of the turbine inlet may be about right for the reduced energy available at a rear installation. This installation doesn't appeal to me directly, but it does eliminate the underhood problems while creating others, such as a scavenge pump and where to get good clean and cool air plus possible ground clearance issues. You will likely have to modify the wastgate actuator to lower the target boost level. A boost controller will not lower the boost below the spring setting in the actuator, it can only raise it. My guess is the base spring setting will be something like 8 psi or so. An intercooler shouldn't really be required at low boost. All things being equal, 5 psi of boost should yield 30+% or so more hp, and probably a bit more torque than that. The stock injectors are likely too small for even that level of boost, although you could get some flow capacity by raising fuel pressure. Only checking the injector part number to see what you have will tell if that is so. If your transaxle doesn't have a vacuum modulator, you shouldn't have a problem with boost getting to it, so a check valve and bleed shouldn't be needed. The only other caution would be the integrated PCV system. The valve itself seems to "check" okay but the air inlet into the front head would have to be plugged off or boost pressure will go directly to the inside of the engine. You will need to install one or more vents that are not connected to the intake where it can see boost. I do not know what your flow reading limit is for your stock MAF/PCM, but if similar to mine (170 gm/sec), you will come very close to maxing it out. Even if it doesn't, you will likely need custom programming at some point. Typical n/a engines have a rough fueling requirement of 2 hp per pound of fuel per hour, where boosted engine is more like 1.75hp per pound per hour. Timming will likely need to be reduced under boost as well, but only careful tuning with a scantool will tell.

His trans does have a vacuum modulator, so he will need a check valve. But last time I bought one, they were like $3 from the HELP! section, so that is not a big deal.

On a turbo car you want the exhaust open as much as it can be after the turbo, so 3" wouldn't hurt. But before it you might want it to be a little smaller. You want to have a good pressure difference between before and after turbo to help it spool.

ok i ordered the boost controller the turbo and the blow off valve. can anyone recomend a electric oil pump for me to use with the remote setup? also can i run 5 pounds until i have enough to change the stock injectors?