I would do the IC and pulley if i were you. and You should try and hit up the exaust like OLBlueEyesBonne was saying. get some ported manis/3" dp. That would really wake that thing up with out taking apart you engine.
Trust me, when and if you take you engine apart, theres gonna be a billion things you decide you want to replace that you didn't plan on. Theres lots of little things that just add up like crazy.

But if your a grease monkey like me CAM IT!!!!!!

Look at my mods. I already have a very freeflowing 3" DP and a high flow CAT with the U-Bend deleted. Ported mani'* are something I will be looking in to when I really need it. The rest of the Cat-back from what I understand is pretty free flowing for the GP'*, and doesn't really need to be upgraded until you are running 12'* and below.

Another question.

With the IC, say I am running OVER 12 lbs of boost on a stock valvetrain with stock manifolds. Will I be going nowhere with this, or will it make a significant increase?

[quote="SolLook at my mods. I already have a very freeflowing 3" DP and a high flow CAT with the U-Bend deleted. .[/quote]

Ooops. I'm sleepy, my bad.

This all depends on where you want to end up?
The cam upgrade is the best bet as it gives good accross the rpm range power and will allow you take your car further than with just high ratio rockers.
There are a few options for the exhaust work but headers seem to be the way to go, you may find some good used ones in the following year?
The PCM is soething you'll want as soon as you start making more power, the enhanced limiters and shift points are well worth it.

1.9 Rockers, 105 springs, retainers, and OR rods along with a PCM and exhaust mods should net you close to 255 wheel. In a GP this should be low 13'*. If you really plan on modding this thing down the line, exhaust should be your second mod next to intake/3.4 combo. The downpipe will come with the headers if you decide to do those. If you get ported manis, you will want a better downpipe.

Remember, any torque adding mods (most of those listed) will put your tranny at risk, most notibly your input shaft which is prone to snapping on the 1-2 shift. The IC/small pulley route is the worse thing you can do to a stock trans as your torque gains will be great.

Boost stacking will limit the effectiveness of this combo which is why I recommended exhaust mods if you go this route. You can only stuff soo much air into an engine. If its not going out then it stacking and causing heat which will eventually cause KR and timing pull negating the benifts of your smaller pulley. The Intercooler helps this by keeping the air cooler but there is a limit, the IC just raises it.

Generally speaking Cams aren't as effective on Boosted cars as on N/A cars. It will make some power, but what do you want? Engine response? Pure power?

I'd suggest doing 1.9 rockers, OR pushrods, LS6 beehive springs, and a PCM, and some mufflers. But i personally like engine response and such. Get that valvetrain spinning 7k before you boost the hell out of it

My real suggestion is to get the 3.4 pulley (mps) and enjoy the extra 20hp or so for a bit while you save money and plan this out more The 3.4 will bring quite a smile to your face and you will think you have a whole new car. When that newness wears off after a month or so and you start to get used to the power you can decide what to do next.

The LS6 springs are good for rockers only (95lb). If your going to cam it later on, do the 105#'* so your not doing springs twice (time consuming pain). I would not rev the valvetrain to 7 grand without 105 or higher springs and a new timing chain w/ dampner. In fact with rockers, 6300 should be all you go to (powerband ends there). A mild cam (VS or Stage1x) should go to 6500 (powerband ends there) and stage 2/3 or xpz can go to 6800-7000 before power falls off. The higher cams will require headwork and stronger springs though.

BTW cams are very effective on boosted cars, especially exhausting the hot air and lowering KR.