To me, abradable coating means a coating that will wear or abrade to take on a tight seal for the rotor tip to housing clearance. Whereas the older Gen3 SC coating would chip cause it wasn't as abradable. The chips would begin the disbonding of the coating to the rotor.
From the looks of the coating I lost on my Gen3 rotors was indicative of disbonding and not wear or abrasion. The coating was removed progressively but scalloped like it came off starting in one location, in large irregular chunks.
I believe that the differential expansion and clearances between the rotor and the housing since brand new, chipped the two rotors that had 2/3 coating removed.

The methanol and water mix I use doesn't interact with the coating at all. In fact, it keeps it very clean.

I'd be very nervous about injecting pre rotor but I hope it works well for you. I've seen pictures of a few Gen Vs that have had the coating on the rotors destroyed. One in particular I remember was a wet Nitrous kit injected pre rotor but that’* completely different.

Don't skimp on pictures of the work Paul


Ed

If it had been the spray on Paul'* Gen3, all 6 lobes would have been affected, not just 2.

Unil we find out exactly what the coating on the GenV is, there'* some doubt, but Paul can do what I suggested on his older one. Crack it open (cost you some oil) and pull out the rotors. Soak a small spot at the end of the rotors where it doesn't matter with a 50/50 water/methanol mix for a few days. That'll be worse than it ever sees. The methanol evaporates far too quickly to really be in any kind of contact for more than a couple milliseconds.

I've done that Bill, last year with my old Gen3 rotors. I have an extra set now. Soaked the whole rotor in water methanol solution for a week. It'* a great cleaner but it didn't touch the coating.

I would be more concerned with spraying NOx pre rotor because of the much larger plenum volume and risk of explosion. Also the very cold charge could thermally shock an already warm rotor and spall off the coating.

Paul, do the same with the GenV (just on the end of one of the lobes) and let'* settle the controversy with proof. I would do it myself but I would need permission from the owner of the GenV I have here.

The strongest mix considered feasible is 1 part methanol to 2 parts water. The strongest anyone would ever run under any circumstances is 50/50.

That being the case, and the rate of evaporation being controlled, a controlled small area soak on the end of a rotor lobe would be the ultimate 'acid test' if done for a day or two.

I too, have tested the Gen3 coating on M62'* and M90'* in the same manner. There wasn't even any softening of the epoxy coating. it'* very resistant to methanol.

This sucker is also going to be injesting MMT (NItro Methane


Beginning to get organized.







Belly up.






PCM is in there somewhere.







Ready to be plucked out....







Where'* my nose :?:






Rotors look good. Only some minor scoring in a couple areas.







Shhhhhhhhhh....

Oh buggers The water pump gasket is glued to the engine and is proving to be a cm at a time challenge.