Between you two guys and Pdad, you'll get 'em licked. Especially if Thomas makes it again.

Jared, Pdad and I are GenV swapping his car tomorrow night. If we hit any bumps, we may get ahold of you guys as well. Anything that makes it go smoother is better.

I'll help however I can. Just let me know. You guys can probably figure it out though . I'll PM you my number if you ever need to call me Bill.

The swap itself is nothing. We can do it drunk in the dark with our teeth.

The tuning (on obd2) is where I fall short. I know Pdad knows that tuner pretty well, but everyone can hit a snag from time to time. And he'll be a couple miles from home.

I just had this crazy mental picture of O'Neil and Bill carrying the genV in their mouths....

Well I just got the PCM back from Intense. Ya, it takes that long for us poor guys up here in Canadia. One month.

No fault of Instense, their turnaround was great. It'* the mail delivery and customs clearance.

Now I can start to play.

Oh, did I mention there was something else in the package from Intense. :P

A hint to those knowledgeable ones............I no longer have an IAT sensor.

Before I fire it up I have to tune my water injection system.
The proper tuning of this boost cooler will be critical to achieving desired results.

Last year I injected after the supercharger and used a smaller nozzle (225 ml/m)than the year before (375 ml/m). I also upped the pressure to compensate for the increased pressure after the SC. It ran like crap compared to the year before when I was injecting before the SC. :(

So this year I'm back to injecting before the SC, for better mixing and cooling of the rotors like the year before.......with the larger 375 ml nozzle.

I do not believe that this will hurt the coating on my Gen 5 rotors. I believe that the Gen 3 rotor coating had a bonding problem of the epoxy coating to the aluminum rotors and regardless of water injection or not, the coating can fail. I also believe that this may have been a production problem so not all rotors are equally effected.

I have disconnected the tubing temporarily.......it'* got those nice plastic quick connect push loc fittings. I have attached a longer tube with a spare nozzle fitted to the end to recirculate back into the supply tank. I will use this method to set the pressure using the under hood gauge.

You guys know that I cannot keep modding secrets so there is one more change I have had Intense program into the PCM........

Oh, did I tell you that Chynna is trying to get in touch with Matski. YA She is stuck in Edmonton and needs a room mate in order to move out of her boyfriends parents house she'* staying at now just west of Edmonton but it'* a hick town with no work, so she wants to go to a bigger city. She is not sexually involved with this boy friend and things are getting awkward now cause he thinks he has certain needs., if you know what I mean.

Oh but I digress, what was I writing about :? Oh well, time for another beer and read so more of what you guys are up to.

Ciao

Sounds like a timing commander How many degrees can you play with on that?


Ed

Yes, a Timing Commander.

16 degrees of timing....... -7 to +8

This is exactly what I need to be able to tune for max power with the Boost Cooler.

Now I can run with lower octane fuel when on the highway without worries or having to use the water injection.
Then for play I can turn up timing for use with the Methanol injection and not have to use any higher octane fuel. This was part of my problem last year. Much too rich using high octane race fuel in combination with the Methanol injection.

Son of a Biatch

Well what I am about to tell you explains a lot.




So I finished installing everything and then began testing and tuning on the water injection system.

I looped the recirc back to the reservoir and then powered up and jumpered the controller to run the pump.

Nothing. I heard the pump for a split second and then nothing.

Was the pump dead :?:

I disassembled the pump head and checked for rotation. It worked fine with the motor uncoupled.
But when I took it apart the water was rusty coloured. But the pump is plastic and it looked fine inside.
Hmmmmmm.

So I connect it back up again and tried.
Still nothing. But I heard it click and run for a split second before it stopped.
Then I saw a dripping under the car.
A leak?

I was baffled. :?

Rechecked all connections. All good. Where was the leak coming from? I took out the reservoir twice and it was dry, so was the pump.

Then a thought occured to me.
The solenoid that prevents syphoning under vacuum

Upon closer inspection that was where the leak was coming from.

It appears that it is seized cllosed so the pump was stalling out and then the pressure was leaking from a connection at the solenoid.

Now that explains a lot.
The solenoid might have viton seals but somewhere inside is a metal that has corroded and seized. Damn

On a positive note.
I fired it up and the engine idled nice and smooth.

Now another long wait for a new solenoid to arrive.

Left it up on the jack stand for now. Probably won't be able to get it on the road for another couple of weeks.

Hey Paul, I wonder if this was what was happening last year on you and that is why it didn't run as well as you wanted? Maybe you weren't really injecting when you thought you were? Or is this just new? That sucks. Good to hear you have found some solutions though. You still won't be able to tune with your PT it sounds like though. ??

Ya Jared that'* what I'm thinking too.

It'* possible it wasn't developing full pressure and was dribbling which caused the bogging and loss of power at the top end.

I still believe it will be better cooling to inject before the SC. I think it'* important to cool the rotors and mix well for even distribution.

I tried to order the parts I needed from the Snow Performance site but the site needs a Zip code and won't accept my Postal Code so I will need to place a phone order tomorrow. $50. for that solenoid check valve.