Mike added the Wagner Rotors to the poll. Thanks again for the suggestion Michael.

Why do you choose just slotted Mouse?

How do you drive the car?
Do you drive, and brake aggressively?

What are you trying to get out of the rotors?
Do you want longevity, performance, or a blend of the two?


My suggestion without knowing your driving style would be slotted, as cross drilled/slotted are nice if you are really driving/braking aggressively, or racing the car, but if you are just driving it like a daily driver, then slotted should last longer than the cross-drilled/slotted, and have less chance to actually warp.

Last time I did the PA it was OEM style Bendix rotors & pro Pads for strength.
I just feel that the machining of slotted & drilled rotors are paramount for pad longevity with even wear. Pad choice is also very important!
Baer (limited racing type market) is the best IMHO at rotor machining.
Next time I would like to try HAWK Brakes. Used em before on other sedan.
Hawk Performance Brake Pads: Race Proven, Street Legal
Even though the bendix works real well on the PA and feels like it should in stopping power, I think the Hawk Rotors would be worth investigating, and they make them for most applications!

I will let others speak about cross drilled/slotted rotors and their experience with pad wear /relating to brake strength.

Edit: I used Raybestos rotors & Pro pads .....Me Bad.....NOT Bendix.

I bought and installed a set of drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads for my '94 LSS. I believe it was around 18 months ago now.

I DO NOT drive the car hard, but do live and drive in Bucharest, which is populated with some of the dumbest drivers and pedestrians on the planet. I lay on the brakes AT LEAST 20-25 times a day due to drivers backing up on thoroughfares, opening car doors wide on streets, pedestrians walking out between cars, vehicles turning right in front of three lanes of traffic, etc, etc, etc. Pedestrian crossings here do not have corresponding traffic lights, and they have the right of way in front of traffic traveling 60mph. At lights, they stand on the curb with the front half of their feet hanging over the edge, prepared to haul *** AS SOON as the light turns green, regardless of oncoming traffic. Idiots.

All that being said, I don't have even a tiny bit of rotor warpage. Incredible as it seems. I'll buy them again when I have to. The set cost about $105.00.

I do brake heavily at times when im enjoying the SC. Im looking for a nice balance between performance and longevity.
Art - I did have crap pads on there which didnt help im sure. I went with wearever GOLD pads and rotors because at the time the price was right (AKA all i could afford). I have however used Hawk before on my 2005 Mitsubishi Evo and I was happy with them. They stayed right on par with the Brembos that came stock with the car and they were half the price.

Liking all the input, keep it coming.

Can you see your rotors through your wheels? If so, go for drilled and slotted, and impress people. Otherwise, just go for slotted or flat ones.

Personally, I'd put more money into the pads than the rotors. A nice pair of dustless ceramic pads will give your car that nice "kiss the wheel" stopping power.

x2 on good ceramic pads!
With my Park ave beast I did the rotors and ceramic pads in Rybestos ProGrade..awesome.
Got about 15 k on them now and still at 85% left. Quiet and very good stopping power.
Luckily I have not had to wipe my lips imprint off the horn button yet...LOL!

Rotors In Pro Grade too! Raybestos Brakes - Products
Pro Grade Ceramic Pads reasonable pricing too!
Raybestos Brakes - Products