Once you get away from stock drop one heat range, Autolite 605. You only need to change the one pulley, no smaller then a 3.5"..........

DAN can u explain more wut ur talkin about...please remember u are chattin with the new age CORKY when it comes to cars.

DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Codes

My exhaust system on my 2000 SSEi cost around $1400. It includes TOG headers, 3" down pipe, Hi-Flow Goerlich cat, 3" to Y pipe, Y to 2" and Magnaflow mufflers. The best way to get a cost on what you want to do with your exhaust is to go to an exhaust shop and get a quote.

so changin all of this....intake, sc pulley and the exhaust will trigger the service engine light? do u kno around how many horses and lbs of torque that added to ur whip?

The SES will not be triggered by doing all of this. Some things that you do can though. Like some Hi-Flo cats will trigger an SES.

If you drop to a pulley smaller than 3.5, you will create knock retard (KR) which will damage your engine if you don't have a tuner to correct.

The rule of thumb is for every .1 of SC pulley drop will = about 10HP.

dtc'* are diagnostic trouble codes ( i.e. service engine soon light) .
i found the cat on line 3" Goerlich Catalytic Converter OBDII 608227 - 608227 for 74.95 plus shipping 3" inlet 3" outlet have to use reducers to make it fit if you are not doing headers. shouldnt need to do heads and cam i'm pretty sure you cand open the exhaust up and leave the motor stock. but you need the exhaust opened if you are going to do more to the car. the sc pulley will run ya about $130 for quick swap and $70 for press on plus you will need the puller

thanks alot saw gunner...do u have the site by chance?

copy the link in my post and paste it into your address bar and it'll take you to the cat got to 3800performance.com for the pulleys

lose the 20'*....um never!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DTCs are error codes. If your catalytic converter doesn't work similarly to a stock converter, the car may throw a code. Get a PCM that has the rear O2 error code erased, and you are good to go. Here'* the PCM for you:

Intense Racing reprogrammed drop-in PCM
Fill in the blanks appropriately and then for the little bubbles:
• Standard PCM
• Stock idle
• Adjust cooling fan speeds to work with a 180º thermostat
• Go with either a stock timing table or the second one from the top if you have 93 regularly available.
• For the DTCs, you can either erase the bottom 3 out of the 4 or just the rear O2. Depends on your budget.
• Leave WOT shift points at stock


And now that you've got the PCM, you can go to a smaller pulley. You have to do that in that order for the mods to make sense. Also, drop in the PCM and then take it easy on the car. It takes about 2 minutes to put in the new one because it'* located behind the driver'* side headlight, but it takes about 2 days of normal driving for it to learn long term fuel trims. Without that learning period, your car will not at first run properly at wide-open throttle.


Modular Pulley System. I suggest going with a 3.6" for now, but it doesn't matter whose pulley you buy.
ZZ Performance modular pulley kit
Intense Racing modular pulley kit


A Magnaflow cat in either 2.5" or 3" is available for about $60 + shipping from ZZ Performance. It'* the cheapest by far but is also highly recommended. It feels like it'* not there, but you're still cleaning your CO emissions to CO2. It may save the Earth from spontaneous combustion. Or not. I like running without a cat, but you didn't hear that from me.
ZZP Magnaflow high flow cat


Intense fender well intake that works with Bonnevilles


Also, get a 180º thermostat to work with your new PCM. It will give you a tiny bit more power by letting your engine run 15 degrees cooler so you can have a wee bit more dense air. The recommended Autolite 605 spark plugs should work just fine. And then you're set for a while before some heavier modding.

Pcm?so changing the pulley I shouldn't do until I do this pcm?