Allow me to introduce you to:
#61
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Posts like a Northstar
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Waukesha, Wisconsin
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That looks awesome! I am lovin this one. Any chance in doing this before installing the mount? I was going to replace my mount and would like to do this if it works. Keep up the awesome work Will.
#62
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
I wouldn't install this before installing the mount. That pocket 'zone' you have to hit is dictated by the bell housing on the trans. You need the mount installed to hit it right.
ROAD TEST:
Idle vibration is about half the solid-steel version earlier in this topic.
Decelleration vibration is zero.
Accelleration vibration is about equal to the solid steel version.
I think I can back off the compression on the bushing a little. But I can also tighten it up for the track.
Power transfer to the ground is immediate. I can't tell the difference in that regard from the solid welded mount, and a VAST improvement over stock if you can handle a little idle vibration and accelleration vibration. I personally like to 'feel' the engine a little.
ROAD TEST:
Idle vibration is about half the solid-steel version earlier in this topic.
Decelleration vibration is zero.
Accelleration vibration is about equal to the solid steel version.
I think I can back off the compression on the bushing a little. But I can also tighten it up for the track.
Power transfer to the ground is immediate. I can't tell the difference in that regard from the solid welded mount, and a VAST improvement over stock if you can handle a little idle vibration and accelleration vibration. I personally like to 'feel' the engine a little.
#64
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
Many thanks to:
1. Beer.
2. Katie, my little helper. And Kim, who will be road testing it later for me.
3. 2000SilverBullet, for the manual labor.
4. Badnit and jr's3800 for the 'donor' experimental used mounts. They were invaluable.
5. Everyone else that posted solid or semi-solid mounts of any type that I carefully researched before trying this.
Maybe now I'll have a mount survive more than 1000 miles.
I'll let you know how the mount performs long-term. But mount testing will be put on hold shortly. New motor arrives in a couple days.
1. Beer.
2. Katie, my little helper. And Kim, who will be road testing it later for me.
3. 2000SilverBullet, for the manual labor.
4. Badnit and jr's3800 for the 'donor' experimental used mounts. They were invaluable.
5. Everyone else that posted solid or semi-solid mounts of any type that I carefully researched before trying this.
Maybe now I'll have a mount survive more than 1000 miles.
I'll let you know how the mount performs long-term. But mount testing will be put on hold shortly. New motor arrives in a couple days.
#65
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
My stock mount had a bolt and chain embedded in the rubber that was only appearant when the rubber split. It kept it from completely seperating. Did you hit that with your drill?
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
John I think he went at an angle with it... Or shall we say he went right by it... I actually like the idea and am watching it closely... Even my 91 isn't very easy on mounts.... I do wonder if that would work on my 91 as the Mount is a little different..
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#67
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
There was no chain in the mount I dissected that jr's3800 sent here. Doesn't seem to be in Badnit'* either.
The mount on the Zilla right now is of unknown manufacture. The trans shop installed it with the rebuild.
Road testing is still great. Holding up well. Kim loves it. Less vibration than the last version.
The mount on the Zilla right now is of unknown manufacture. The trans shop installed it with the rebuild.
Road testing is still great. Holding up well. Kim loves it. Less vibration than the last version.
#70
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
Slight diagonal. I wanted to avoid the hole where the glue is injected on the bottom side, but had to hit a very small target on the top (back) side.