Upgradeing brakes on 96 se
#1
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Upgradeing brakes on 96 se
I have a 96 se and i want to upgrade the brakes what are some good companies that i can look for?
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Raymond
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Raymond
#2
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Brembo or Powerslot rotors up front with ceramic pads (I prefer Raybestos Quiet-stops). Be ANAL about your wheel lug torque! It'* crucial.
For the rears, use GOOD quality NAPA parts. If you don't work on the rears, it'll cost you the fronts.
For the rears, use GOOD quality NAPA parts. If you don't work on the rears, it'll cost you the fronts.
#3
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One more thing, if you've ever considered cross-drilled rotors, read this topic and form your own conclusions:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=57901
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=57901
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thanks for the advice, i do not like drillled rotors, they are like cheese graters for brake pads, but what is the proper wheel torque for the bonneville
thanks
thanks
#5
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Originally Posted by sweet96
thanks for the advice, i do not like drillled rotors, they are like cheese graters for brake pads, but what is the proper wheel torque for the bonneville
thanks
thanks
#6
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This is strongly suggested:
1. Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner to the new rotors are sit parallel to the hub with no chunkies in between.
2. Clean the threads of the lug studs in the same manner.
3. Put a light coat of light oil on the hub face and threads (just a mist) to repel water and lightly lubricate the threads for even wheel lug torque.
4. When you torque the lugs, pre-torque them all in a staggered pattern to 50 ft/lbs, then 75, then 100.
When you don't warp your front rotors, this little extra work will be worth it. Our cars from from the factory are a little under-braked. The rotors are prone to warping, and a good number of us have. If you ever have your wheels removed and reinstalled by a shop for any reason, go home and re-torque them.
1. Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner to the new rotors are sit parallel to the hub with no chunkies in between.
2. Clean the threads of the lug studs in the same manner.
3. Put a light coat of light oil on the hub face and threads (just a mist) to repel water and lightly lubricate the threads for even wheel lug torque.
4. When you torque the lugs, pre-torque them all in a staggered pattern to 50 ft/lbs, then 75, then 100.
When you don't warp your front rotors, this little extra work will be worth it. Our cars from from the factory are a little under-braked. The rotors are prone to warping, and a good number of us have. If you ever have your wheels removed and reinstalled by a shop for any reason, go home and re-torque them.
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bendix premium pads and rotors from advance are another option. It is what I have on mine and I a few thousand miles later I am still re-arranging my car after I ever so kindly move EVERYTHING to the front when I brake.
#8
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Originally Posted by corvettecrazy
bendix premium pads and rotors from advance are another option. It is what I have on mine and I a few thousand miles later I am still re-arranging my car after I ever so kindly move EVERYTHING to the front when I brake.
I used the Bendix Titainum pads and the Bendix Rotors... Its been 1 year and the car still stops great with no signs of rotor warp at all... And the Brake fade after a long highway run is very low...
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