I'm essentially doing an overhaul on my L36 during the week of Thanksgiving, and I'd like to find out a little more about the possibility of eliminating the EGR system. What is involved in the process, and should it even be considered? Would it free up any horsepower? What risks would I be taking, i.e. burnt valves, unreliability issues, etc.? Tell me what you know!

POSITIVE: The upper intake can't fail, colder intake charge, cleaner throttle body- upper/lower intake, weight saving of a little over 3lbs.
NEGITIVES: Will lose about 1 MPG, if you have inspections - you may not pass, then you have that whole '92 L27 burnt valve situation but I have never heard of an EGR-less L36 having a problem with that.

After taking off the supercharger and throttle body and seeing how dirty/gummy it was I decided to delete my EGR just for the sake of keeping the throttle body, supercharger, and lower intake clean. FYI: I have the whole EGR system removed from my Series 1 L67.

To delete the EGR you can do two things...
- If you don't have the EGR code deleted in the PCM you will set off a check engine light. If that is your case block off the exhaust side (rear manifold) of the EGR and filter the end of the EGR tube so it is sucking in clean cold air. (Emission Safe)
- If you have the EGR code deleted in the PCM, you can completely remove the EGR by blocking off the intake (LIM) and exhaust (rear manifold), saving a little over 3lbs. in the process. (Emission Safe IF they don't do a visual inspection or are stupid and don't notice)

If you dont want to chop up your EGR and modify the plates then you can buy EGR Block off plates from ZZP:
http://www.zzperformance.com/products1.php?id=229

The simpler way to do it is to disconnect it'* inlet pipe from the rear exhaust manifold, cover the opening in the manifold with a block-off plate and install a filter on the inlet pipe.
It'* worked well for me for a couple of years now with no problems but with the benefit of keeping a clean throttle body and intake tract.
.....and a cooler charge. :P

Wow, so that'* all that'* involved? Sounds like I'll be adding this to the project list. Won't have to worry about UIM failure ever again!

And Iowa does not have emissions testing or visual inspections.

Let me know of any other issues that could be involved. Thanks!

how do the valves get burnt?

EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) exists to lower the temperatures in the combustion chambers. Somehow (I forget the reasoning) it also helps create cleaner emissions. Without exhaust gas to cool the combustion chambers, the valves can get burnt due to excessive temps. That'* all I know. I'm not sure what the symptoms are, or how it can be problematic.

Another question:

When installing a filter on the end of the EGR tube, what kind of filter would be appropriate, and where would I find one? I read the TechInfo article about burnt valves in the '92 models, and the long-term ramifications of running without a cooling charge in the intake make me nervous. What do you guys think?

Additionally, where is the best place to position the EGR tube once disconnecting it from the exhaust manifold?

Thanks!

Just think about it .....there are alot of 92 3800'* that have 250K+ on them.....none of them have the EGR....did the Vin C'* have an EGR??? if they didnt there are alot if high mile C'* out there also

I'd look for an old style valve cover breather for like a SBC. As where to position it - anywhere out of the way and away from the manifold/crossover. If your that worried about burnt valves run a colder t-stat (180) and colder plugs (1 range).

Thanks again for the great info. We'll see what option sounds the best when it comes time to do it. I'm glad you guys have done it before and can give me these tips. Much appreciated!