Stock Open Diff
#1
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Stock Open Diff
Well, mine is still original from the sounds of it
BUT i have more than enough resources to rebuild it and do whatever to it so it doesnt freaking break, aka that weak *** roll pin holding the pinion shaft in the case assembly..
Looking at my fsm, it doesnt look TO bad to remove.
Looks to me like
Remove CV shaft from extension housing,
un bolt and remove extension housing..
Then from there how would the diff come out..?
There has to be a better design in place of that roll pin..I know most chev rear diffs used a lock screw, much stronger design.
Im not looking for an LSD, as, there are only a few available and for lotsa $$$.
Guys i wanna rebuild mine before it goes BOOM.
BUT i have more than enough resources to rebuild it and do whatever to it so it doesnt freaking break, aka that weak *** roll pin holding the pinion shaft in the case assembly..
Looking at my fsm, it doesnt look TO bad to remove.
Looks to me like
Remove CV shaft from extension housing,
un bolt and remove extension housing..
Then from there how would the diff come out..?
There has to be a better design in place of that roll pin..I know most chev rear diffs used a lock screw, much stronger design.
Im not looking for an LSD, as, there are only a few available and for lotsa $$$.
Guys i wanna rebuild mine before it goes BOOM.
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Originally Posted by SSEimatt93
anyone?
Have you done any internet research? There has to be someone who has some insight? (it certainly ain't me )
#4
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god your car looks good in your sig
anyways, yeah, im gunna do some reasearch ask some more people at work
anyways, yeah, im gunna do some reasearch ask some more people at work
#5
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Originally Posted by SSEimatt93
god your car looks good in your sig
anyways, yeah, im gunna do some reasearch ask some more people at work
anyways, yeah, im gunna do some reasearch ask some more people at work
Well, unless someonehas some better ideas here, please share what you learn at your shop. Maybe it will get the ideas flowing, here.
#6
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exactly. The main weakness folks appears to be that stupid roll pin...
#7
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Originally Posted by SSEimatt93
exactly. The main weakness folks appears to be that stupid roll pin...
You either break the roll pin so the pinion shaft can move in and out of the cage, or you break the shaft itself. John Wikoff and I both did that. I think Gordy did too.
Odds are about 50/50 that if you break the shaft, the diff will explode parts out the case. If you lose the pin only, you'll probably know something is wrong long before the condition gets terminal.
Keep in mind that the three Series 1 L67'* that are known to have sheared the SHAFT were putting down at a bare minimum 94/95 pulleyed power. Which is basically Series 2 power, but at a lower RPM (more dangerous), and with less torque management in the PCM.
#8
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as far as removing that bad boy and rebuilding it myself..feasable?
i think so
i think so
#10
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awesome..looks like there is only a snap ring holding the output shaft in the cage..something to think about and do.