BROKE TURN SIGNAL
 

Anyone know how to fix this problem. Or where there is a thred to show me thanks a lot :shock:

This is a royal PITA. You WILL need a book and alot more for this. Not something I'd suggest everyone try on a saturday. It requires a TON of disassembly. Let's hope it's not the lever (multi-function switch).

Can you give us more detailed descriptions of the problem? Broke don't tell us much.

the turn signal switch it out i also i took it out and also i see where the switch plugs in at and its hangin by some wires i cant identify any more info

man, quit breaking stuff...J/K :wink: Yeah, it's a pain.

I am tryin to stop breaking stuff or am i just wanting to replace it :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

Okay, if you're telling us that you actually broke the plastic turn-signal lever, then you're going to have some in-depth surgery to do. If the lever is intact but the turn-signal switch itself isn't working right (e.g. doesn't cancel when unwinding after a turn, or worse), then you're going to have almost as much surgery to do, minus maybe one or two steps at the very end.

Finally, if it's only your High-Beam/Low-Beam switch that seems to have quit, it _may_ only be the switch that's at fault rather than the linkage leading to it, which would be good because the high/low-beam switch is _not_ inside the steering column; it's behind the dash, operated by a little pushrod leading down from the turn-signal lever.

So assuming the worst, that you have physically broken the plastic turn-signal lever, then the general steps you're going to need to do are these:

1) unplug the airbag (below the dash)
2) remove the airbag and pull steering wheel (requires steering-wheel puller)
3) remove airbag supporting hardware and steering column lock plate (requires lock-plate compressor)
4) unplug steering column wiring harness(es) behind dash
5) ease turn-signal switch upwards, detach broken lever and its wiring
6) install new lever, snake its wiring down column as needed

This job requires patience, a service manual and an ability to work with small and fiddly parts. The steering-wheel puller and lock-plate compressor are available just about anywhere; not expensive. The worst parts of the process are probably going to be routing the wires up and down the column (using the old wires to pull the new ones through is helpful, or attach a lead wire to the old harness before pulling it up the column to remove it, so you have something to pull the new ones back down with), and getting the high/low beam selector pushrod back into position under the turn-signal lever when reassembling everything.

You might want to consider paying a pro who's done this before, unless you feel like taking on the challenge. If there's a U-pick'em junkyard around, you can get valuable practice by removing the replacement lever from the donor car yourself before you start in on your own.

it tooke me about a day and a half to take all apart and put all back together. make sure you put the canceler back in right. my t.s only cancels on right turns, not left turns (was tired before i got to that step)!!LOL!!! NE Ways, it can be done unless you are carelss doing it!!

There are a couple of little springs for the cancelling action, one for each side, so you've probably just broken one. If you feel like disassembling things again, you can buy and install the springs separately; you don't need to replace the entire switch assembly.

thanks for the input. i will probably just wait. ive gotten used to putting the little finger out on the come back to turn off the signal. it is just anyone else who drives my car has problems and it makes me laugh. Thanks for helping figure out the problem

Jseabert has the same problem. One of the tabs on the cancelling ring is broken on his. Cheap part, PITA to change.