97 olds 88 3.8 fuel lines
#1
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
97 olds 88 3.8 fuel lines
Hello
97 olds 88...I replaced one of the fuel line quick connectors a while back, dorman patch, where you cut off the old nylon end, and use the adapter and hot water to get the nylon flexible enough to joint the two together and just snap back onto the fuel rail, amazing it actually holds together
anyway, my question is, from the intake plenum, the nylon fuel line snaps on, and goes back near heater core and disappears in all that junk, is there an actual metal fuel line there somewhere? or is it nylon all the way to the tank?, next, if metal some where, can the nylon line be replaced as a whole, instead of cut and adapter? or, is there another option and get rid of the nylon line altogether?
any info?
97 olds 88...I replaced one of the fuel line quick connectors a while back, dorman patch, where you cut off the old nylon end, and use the adapter and hot water to get the nylon flexible enough to joint the two together and just snap back onto the fuel rail, amazing it actually holds together
anyway, my question is, from the intake plenum, the nylon fuel line snaps on, and goes back near heater core and disappears in all that junk, is there an actual metal fuel line there somewhere? or is it nylon all the way to the tank?, next, if metal some where, can the nylon line be replaced as a whole, instead of cut and adapter? or, is there another option and get rid of the nylon line altogether?
any info?
#2
Retired
I've heard of some people yanking out the steel line and using all nylon line. I don't know why they don't do that from the factory. Its rated at 500psi WP. Burst is 1500. I guess its a money gimmick. Use parts that will fail after 8 years.
Problem with nylon connectors is, its best to pop them off and clean the metal parts that the line connects to and add some lube to the seals of the connector about every 2 years. This is to prevent corrosion from building up and making it a PITA to remove them after 10 years.
Problem with nylon connectors is, its best to pop them off and clean the metal parts that the line connects to and add some lube to the seals of the connector about every 2 years. This is to prevent corrosion from building up and making it a PITA to remove them after 10 years.
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
#3
Senior Member
True Car Nut
i replaced everything from the engine back on my bonnie and monte. the nylon is a much better way to go, the ones like yours are 3/8ths feed and 5/16ths return. there are a couple ways, on my monte i just got a brass adapters like what you were talking about for the front and back. on the bonnie i got fuel rail connectors and put the bulk nylon line right on those. the car quest here had all this stuff. just be real careful of pinching, once the line pinches in a area it wont come out and fuel wont go through that area well
#4
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
ok, so the nylon is the way to go?
my question is, from the intake plenum, the nylon fuel line snaps on, and goes back near heater core and disappears in all that junk,
is there an actual metal fuel line there somewhere? or is it nylon all the way to the tank?,
when adding the replacement end, the new nylon piece worked great, when warming it up and inserting the splicer, but the old nylon side, well...good luck, not as willing to flex and alow the splicer adapter, is there another way?
my question is, from the intake plenum, the nylon fuel line snaps on, and goes back near heater core and disappears in all that junk,
is there an actual metal fuel line there somewhere? or is it nylon all the way to the tank?,
when adding the replacement end, the new nylon piece worked great, when warming it up and inserting the splicer, but the old nylon side, well...good luck, not as willing to flex and alow the splicer adapter, is there another way?
#5
Senior Member
True Car Nut
i think it was some weird braided flex, doesnt matter really as all of it is bypassed. as far as the old stuff i found what works best is a heat gun on low, only hit the last half inch or so just what fits on the connector, then take some snap ring pliers and stretch it out some then jab it on quick. dont heat any more than needed because it just pinches and you have to start over.
#6
Senior Member
Just look under the doors on the passenger side.....look for metal or plastic lines going to the fuel tank......better hope they are plastic or you will find those metal lines having some rust areas...
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brminder
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12-23-2002 05:03 AM