I have 1 owner 98 regency w/173 thousand miles. Had intermittent starting problems so I purchased a vats bypass from Baker. Installed it and thought the problem was solved. Now a few months later its back. According to their website their unit only bypasses a signal for the injectors if you still have a problem you should: "Will I need anything else if I am using this to bypass my failing VATS system:If this is the complete system (all the other computer modules are still there) your vehicle may also disable cranking, our module only enables the fuel injectors. If this is the case, you will need to find and bypass the crank enable/disable relay by rewiring this relay (add a jumper across it) or you can bypass it by using another relay or remote start system to activate the starter solenoid when the ignition key is in the cranking position." Aldata says its located to the left of the steering column under the dash and shows what looks like a relay. Wiring diagram shows a 10 ga yel & 10 ga ppl as well as 20 ga ppl & 18 ga yel wires going to it. I am going to have to visit a bone cracker doc if I can't find this thing pretty soon. I saw one post on here saying you had to remove the dash on certain models of our cars on here! Help

not sure if it is applicable to your car, but on my 99 park ave, there is a similar block with a fuse in it. could be a relay on the other side, but i didnt think to look and all i have now is pics. i can see it when i remove the hvac duct above the pedals (7mm screws).

here are some pics from the front, from when i installed my remote start.

its the blue thing to the left of the main wiring harness on the column.

forgot to add, if it does come down to you having to take the dash out, its not entirely that hard. after you pry the pryable panels off, everything is just 7mm screws and 13mm nuts/bolts. ive had my dash apart several times for various reasons.

here is a pic of everything you can expect to remove if you cant get at it by just removing the a/c duct above the pedals.

the thing with the foam on it on the right in the first pic is the hvac duct i am talking about. on my car it is just held on with 3 7mm screws.

https://www.gmforum.com/attachments/...l-imag1888-jpg

https://www.gmforum.com/attachments/...l-imag1887-jpg

hope i was of some help!

if you have the signal bypass type and it worked for a couple months its not likely the security, what is it doing exactly, not cranking? where is the fuel enable module wired to?

if its not cranking you could have something wrong with the start enable side of the tdm module, pnp switch,start relay or wiring, or the ign switch itself