No. It can start right up and go into this state. In fact, the other day I drove the car a few hours problem free. Next morning, immediate problems. Its been too cold to really mess with. BUT, I put my meter on the Battery and got about 12.4, so that'* a tad low. Enough to cause issues? However, I started the car and checked again and was only getting like 13.3. And I am pretty sure a good alternator should be throwing about 14, correct? So I guess I am gonna pull them out and head to Oreillys and let them check. Can't hurt. I assume the ECM is the sideways mounted box right next to the mini fuse box on the pass side? Just in case I try rapping on it as suggested.

Cars can do a lot of strange things especially when it'* cold out and 40%+ of your batteries cranking power is removed.
Trickle charging your battery overnight and then having it load tested is highly recommend to ensure a good healthy battery.
Next is the ALT. If The alt is cold and you start it and you are only getting 13.3v, ya that'* a hint that a new ALt is probably in order, unless you have bad connection present.
When I fire up my Pk Ave cold, I got 14.9 going in right away.
Look forward to hear about the ALT'* bench test ..

12.4v is about 75% charged, not enough to keep it from starting, or cause issues as long as when it starts the alternator functions properly.
What the alternator puts out as far as a charge varies, depending on how fast the car is idling, or how much of a load is being drawn.
Your battery could use a bit of a charge, see if you can get it charged up to 12.6v.
I am not sure how O'Reilly'* does it, but they should be able to test the alternator, and the battery while still in your car, that is how the other AutoParts stores I have been to do it.

I am pretty sure your ECM is on the passenger side, under the hush panel, on 94'* that is where it is, not sure as I have not seen one on a 93'
It should look similar to this.

I am pretty sure I located the ECM has a bar code on it. I guess I can see if OReilly'* will do it in place. But easy to remove too. I'm on a mission now

They cannot test the ECM, I was talking about the battery, and alternator.

Had Batt and Alternator tested. Both came back ok. I installed a Coolant sensor just because, still throwing the same codes 15 + 16. Though today its running fine. I don't know what else to check at this point. Don't really want to drop 150 for an ECM in hopes that it works.

ecm can be had on ebay-used & ive bought several!! worked great!! as for tyhe tester - try looking or placing an ad on craigs list!! ive bought 2 1 for obd1 & 1 for obd 2 both under 25 bux each too. were from retired mechanicx ---ps:: change that battery too!! car battery!!!!!!!

Was the battery ever charged back to 100% ?
Normally if the alternator is good, and it starts, then it will charge itself back up, and there should not be any issues as long as the voltage is 12.4 to 12.6, but there is a chance there could be sensor issues with it being down to 75% charged.
If it will not get back up to 100% again then some cells may be dying in it.

I trickle charged the battery before having it load tested. But who knows? It is near is expiration date of 7 years. But as I have said, I can't see how a dying battery can be good from day to day or hour to hour then not work right. That doesn't make sense. But again, I am desperate.
But check this out: I noticed something for the 3rd or 4th time. Today it was running ok then I had to mash the gas to into passing mode to climb a hill as soon the rpm'* came down and it went back into OD, instant freak out.
So I have to think something is not doing a proper fuel/fire mix and basically doing so at its own will.

test the TPS!! likely bad -going bad!! theyre cheap & u can install & reset -simple with a cheapo digital multimeter!!

The battery thingy -if its older that 2-3 years -get rid of it!! Likely cell / cells are going bad!! Get a new one & forget that battery!!