The blower motor on my daughters 1996 olds 98 is not working. I am only getting about 1.3 volts on the plug. When I turn the fan control **** in the car the display bars move up and down, but the voltage never changes. If the resistor was bad, then the fan should blow on high all the time. My daughter also said it used to only blow cold air on one side of the car, but now I don't get air on any side of the car.

I checked the blend door behind the glove box, and moved it from side to side, but I didn't get any air flow.

I can't seem to find a wiring diagram/fuse box that matches what I see on this car. The max fuse box under the hood has space for 8 relays but only the first two and last two are being used. All the diagrams/pictures I see have relays in all 8 slots and the third and fourth slots are for the blower relays. These slots are empty in this car, so I am at a loss.

Any suggestions would be great!

My daughter took the car to auto zone to get the codes read for her check engine light. She got the following codes: P0441 Evap. P1406 egr valve pintle position circuit. P1441 evap system flow during non purge condition. I am sure where to start on these, other than to look for vacuum leaks.

i have no idea on the hvac, i dont have any diagrams for that car. but the other two are common 3800 issues.the egr gets sticky and sometimes you can get away with cleaning it and putting a new gasket on it. also sounds like the purge valve is stuck open, this is the one on top of the engine. i would inspect the lines too while you are checking stuff. the ones on the engine get hot from the cover trapping the heat and end up dry rotted

Well, you are not going to get any air flow moving the blend door if the blower motor is not working....

Is the HVAC system manual(uses a resistor block) or autotemp(uses a blower control module)?

I believe it is auto temp with a control module.

Well, basically what you are going to do, is remove the harnesses to the blower control module......it is located on the firewall(left side), underneath the relay bracket, left side....should be a 2 harness connectors....one has a single wire, the other three(may have to move relay bracket assembly to get to the harnesses)......the single wire(red) should be hot at all times......the other harness has a grey(signal wire), black(ground) and purple(this is the output wire that goes to your blower motor....

So attaching a test light from the red single wire to the black wire, you test light should light, meaning the fuse is ok and your ground is ok....if you jumper the red wire to the purple wire, your blower should run at high speed....if it doesn't bad blower motor......you can attach a voltmeter to the grey wire and black wire......turn key to on, turn your HVAC unit on, and slowly increase the blower speed, from low to high, manually.......you should see a change in voltage as you go low to high.....if you do, the programmer is ok, and the blower module needs replacement.......if the voltage doesn't change, then you have a programmer/control head problem.....

There are no blower relays, because you have an autotemp system....

Thank you very much for the detailed information. I will see if I can do some testing later today.

I removed the battery cable and cleaned the EGR valve to get the pintle moving up and down. There was a lot of carbon buildup. When I connected everything back up the check engine light came back on immediately, like the removing of the battery never reset it.

I looked for the purge valve on top of the engine, like jwfirebird said, but I cannot find it. Does anyone have a picture or details of where I can find it? It is a fairly cheap part to replace, so it would be worth a try to see if the p0441 and the p1441 codes go away.

Need to remove the plastic engine cover, by removing the oil fill tube....

That #9 is in the wrong place....the purge valve is just to the left and below of the #6....

I was able to check the voltages for the fan, and I got the following results:

- I jump the re wire to the purple and the fan came on.
- When I checked the voltage between the grey and black wires I got a constant 7.86 volts while turning the fan controller.

According to Tech II posting, I have a programmer/control head problem. What part is this? Is this the part that the two wiring plugs are plugged into or the controller inside the car?

When I unplugged the wire connector with just the red wire I noticed it was charred and melted at female socket. I am sure it will need to be replaced, does the male module need to be replaced also?

Update on the check engine light.

I replaced the purge solenoid valve and cleaned the EGR valve with carb cleaner, and the light is still on. I also left the positive battery cable disconnected for more than an hour while changing and cleaning the purge valve and cleaning the EGR valve.

I am stuck on what to do next.