To me this feels like a standard VATS case but with a few other factors I haven't seen yet after scouring the web. Any advice is appreciated.

It'* a '99 Eighty-Eight. 75K on it. Car wont start. Starter doesn't click and fuel pump doesn't engage. Everything else lights up including dashboard icons. I haven't made specific note of what the security light is doing.

A week ago I had this problem. After about 10 minutes of trying it fired right up. No problems since then. This morning the same thing occurred. I didn't have much time so I just went to work and then hopped on the web to research.

This happened to the previous owner. They were able to simply replace the key and everything worked. That was tens of thousands of miles ago. This morning while I was at work I had my girlfriend try the main key and the spare key in the upright position for 10 minutes then attempt to start. No luck. Though I haven't vetted her process and will attempt this on my own.

Question: If I do confirm this is a VATS issue, should I just purchase a new key lock cylinder or take the gamble and just replace the key? Dealer says no refunds on keys ($35) and that fix twice on the same vehicle seems unlikely. Or should I approach this in a completely separate manner? Follow the online instructions to bypass the VATS?

Thanks

If it is the square key with the black resistor it most likely isn't the key. Most of the time one of the little tiny wires that go into the ign lock cylinder break and you need to replace the cylinder. There are 10 different possible keys. I know some people who just buy a lock cylinder and plug it in under the dash and leave the key in it. Or I worked with a guy who figured the resistance value for all ten keys and he would just go to radio shack and buy resistors and sodar them into the column harness bypassing the lock cylinder all together.

If you have a multi meter it'* real simple to test. Remove the panel under the steering column. Dissconect the turn signal harness. Look for the two tiny wires with a orange sheeth. Check for contanuity between the two wires. Shoul be open with no key and should have resistance with the key. If the circuit stays open with the key in you have a broken wire

Thanks for the reply. I think I want to go the latter route, but not until I can confirm its a Vats/passkey issue.

The security light only shows up for about 5 seconds then turns off. After waiting the default 3 to 10 minutes for reset I had no luck in starting the car this time.

Going to reset the battery next and see what happens. Thanks again.

Removing the battery for over 5 minutes and attempting it again didn't do anything. Attempted the key reset multiple times with no luck. Next step is attempting the resistor hack I guess.

If your going to do that you need to figure out the ohms value of your key and find a resistor that matches it.

Yeah, that should be fun. I'm going to follow this guide http://vats.likeabigdog.com

Thanks for your help. Fingers crossed.

Before I try the passkey hack I think I'm going to test the starter and solenoid to make sure they're getting the proper juice. It should be at least 10v, right? Anything less than 12v might indicate a problem?

Sorry for the green questions, I'm new to this - but have to start somewhere I guess.

Yes a quick way to test the starter is to pull the starter relay and jump terminals 30 and 87, if it cranks over the PCM isn't commanding the relay on. If it don't crank than yes you have a starter or wiring problem.

Here is what I use to jump relays, I know it'* not fused but I like to live on the edge