i would imagine. the cars dont run that good on fuel cleaners anyway and throw in being in open loop, i could see it stalling

So after putting the MAF sensor back in, idling, I get P0303 cylinder 3 misfire detected. BUT I did spray throttle body cleaner in there so that may have caused it, and in fact that may have been the source of the random misfire code from the previous cleaning which was stored in the system for so long.The car doesn't search for an idle speed as much (it'* about -12 out)(though it isn't anywhere near as good as a modern car) and I haven't gotten a code about the MAF sensor yet. I haven't actually driven the car yet so I will post back after I verify there aren't any more codes popping up.

If there'* still an issue I'm leaning towards the spark plugs being defective so I will pull one out when it isn't snowing and order replacements if they turn out to be bad like I think they are. It could also be a vacuum leak but I didn't notice anything immediately obvious and may just end up bringing it to a mechanic to diagnose as I'm just about out of energy!

I've been using 91 octane since I bought the car so fuel is not an issue.

Thanks jwfirebird and 75 racer for your help, trust me it'* much appreciated!

thats for updating

How old is the battery? Have you checked voltage when cold? Are you sure your alternator when cold is putting out proper voltage with little load? Voltage issues will drive you to replace thousands of expensive parts while still having the same issue.

The battery is new, the alternator is perhaps questionable at worst only because when the headlights are on the radio display flickers a little but remains perfectly stable when at full brightness, probably just a problem with the radio itself. The interior lights flickered in the past but it stalled soon after so it was likely due to rough idle. I have checked the voltage reading on the info display and it remains stable at around 15.4V, I believe before when I had the idling issue it was around 14.4v but still stable.

My OBDII reader has an emissions ready light (Innova 3100e) and prior to cleaning the sensor it displayed a yellow light and I now get a green light.

I've only driven it maybe 20km so far but I haven't had any further stalling problems or rough idling or any codes come up on the reader so I'm fairly confident the issue is solved. Anything else I do to it is basically routine maintenance like spark plugs, etc. Now it'* time to fix ABS!

The only thing that broke on me since was the trunk strut because of the cold and it started leaking everywhere. Going to have to replace them.

had to get hood struts for my monte and firebird, they were way cheaper on rock auto than the local parts stores, like 10 bucks vs 20 each

Thanks for mentioning that actually, I thought for sure these were going to be some proprietary part only GM makes but I checked and managed to order one locally without having to ship one from the States. Still ended up costing about the same but no big deal and probably better quality part (Monroe).

shipping things there tends to make it undesirable there probably.

Most lift support struts have a number on them that can be cross referenced. Doesn't matter whom made the vehicle. Most GM lift supports come from major manufacturers such as Stablis, Bosch, ect.

It'* rather simple to test Voltage at the battery or at terminals with the engine off and cold idle, warm idle, under load. A volt meter reading from 8-18 volts. Never go off the gauge in the dash or a code reader for actual output.

Even a bad cable, wire, or connection can cause low voltage. A buddy had a 89 454 C-2500 1 owner suburban. 55,000 miles. Started giving him fits. He checked everything but his cables. Positive cable corroded, jacket was split. Pretty embarrassing for a Dealer Tech.