it was fine afterwards so i have a feeling its the same problem as before. what are the symptoms of the bad valves

I would suspect that a burned valve would cause a lower than normal compression reading, but you said all yours were close and read above 130. While a new engine might read 150-180 hot, 130 cold and all close is still pretty respectable. Still, the valves could be leaking some. And your engine, without EGR, might be a candidate for this problem. (By the way, bad valves also can cause a characteristic flutter on that $16 vacuum gauge.) Worn valve guides might explain the problem as others suggested earlier.

I cannot imagine how valves or guides could have anything to do with the car running 60mph uphill with no pressure on the accelerator pedal. That is most likely a separate problem that should not be ignored.

I just re-read this entire thread to see if you have cleaned your throttle body (yes) because that might have explained the sticking throttle.

I might have missed it, but have you replaced your PCM or checked the grounds to the PCM? You might certainly check the ground bus in front of the driver'* seat under the carpet to make sure it is clean and tight, too. You might try unplugging and plugging the connectors on the PCM to make sure there is no corrosion causing problems there. After working them in and out a few times, coat the connectors with dielectric grease. If still no change after these, consider installing a known good PCM from a junkyard. I got one for my '95 for $45. Others have found them as cheap as $25.

However, I must say that I cannot imagine how the PCM could cause the oil cap symptom. Unless....it is commanding the purge valve to open at idle when it should not.

Did you do the vacuum tests by removing the hose for each system from the intake manifold and plugging the hole at the intake manifold while the engine is idling to see if it made a difference? You replaced the HOSES to the charcoal canister, but did you check for leaks in the system by performing the above test? If you have not yet eliminated it, a bad purge valve could be the problem. Just trying to get to the bottom of this.

I had my friends brother check the vaccum he said it was good but i will get some money tomarow and buy the guage to see the readings the one i ordered online got here and wasnt a vaccum guage it was a tire guage so i sent it back but i will go out and call around again to see if anyone has one. Also would a bad purge valve cause the oil cap symptom? if you tell me how to get the carpet up i will check the grounds under there tomarow morning.

Yes.
Just pull the carpet out right here and find and check this connector.

thanks bill i will check that tomarow. also whats the purge valve? the evap canister?

The purge valve opens to allow vacuum to suck the vapors out of the charcoal canister - not supposed to be open at idle. Please check it by disconnecting the hose at the manifold as described previously.

hey bill i pulled up my carpet and i find a whole harness of wires but no connector

also the purge valve isnt clicking or anything with the car running

Take another good look right there by the door sill, it'* there. It doesn't look like your normal connector, but it'* there. Was there any moisture in or around the carpet? I know that there is a better picture of that Ground Buss somewhere, but must have missed it with my search just now...


Replace that purge valve if you are sure there are no other vacuum hose leaks. It'* a minimal cost item that does fail now and then.


And hang in here with us, we're trying to help you out.

I just re-read this whole thread, 'cause it concerns me that we've been chasing things and maybe not getting resolution on some of the basics. I notice that you have never answered whether you tested the purge valve. Here'* BillButtermore'* post from page 3 or 4 or something, lol:

As I look back over this thread, it occurs to me that the purge valve almost HAS TO be part of your issues. Please do the check listed above and we'll go from there.