Originally Posted by jb84
anyone know how im supposed to take the deflector sheild off and what I would use to corectly space the sensor to clamp it
I didn't know like Danthurs said you could remove the clips to get the foreign object deflector off. There is a small section of the clip, a little less than 1/4 inch that is sprung out and I just squeezed that in with a screwdriver and the foreign object deflector/splash guard would slide over the clip. Be careful not to break the guard though, the plastic it is made of is not very strong. It required a lot of patience on my part.
And regarding the position of the CPS, as mentioned above, needs to be as far back away from the harmonic balancer (especially if it is not an OEM part). Also as mentioned above, when you remove the CPS bracket with the CPS attached, and then remove the CPS, you will see jaw marks on the CPS where the bracket holds the CPS in position. If it is an OEM CPS then you can put it in the same position on the new bracket that comes with the new CPS, as it was on the old bracket. The manual says there is a special tool for aligning the CPS. True there is a narrow space for the vanes to slide through the CPS, assuming this is the CPS style for your vehicle: http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
If it is not in the right position the vanes will tear up the CPS.
The CPS sends a signal to the Ignition Modulator so a lot of people think it is the Ignition Modulator when it turns out not to be. I read the same trick can be used on the Modulator as on the CPS when the car stalls. Pour a gallon of water over either one when hot and if it starts right away that is the problem.
And do not over tighten the bracket jaws on the CPS, because it will distort it...just tighten enough to keep it in position and make sure the position of the CPS in the bracket is straight up and down/squared and not askew. (ie top more to the right than the bottom or reverse, top more to the left than the bottom)
If you are still feeling uncomfortable about the position, then without the splash guard put on, put the harmonic balancer on and tighten it enough so you can still see the CPS and have someone inch the gear around to make sure the CPS doesn't touch the vanes. You may be able to squeeze a feeler gauge between the CPS valleys and the harmonic balancer vanes to check for centering. The vanes on my harmonic balancer were kind of distorted so I made sure to inch the gear along until the harmonic balancer had made one complete revolution. Of course you will then have to pull the harmonic balancer off again so you can replace the splash guard making sure the part of the clips that spring, have sprung, so the splash guard will stay on tight.
If the CPS is in the wrong position the vanes will tear it up. If it'* just slightly off you will hear a little scraping and then you would have to remove the harmonic balancer again and move it over slightly.
Trust me, I did everything wrong, before I did everything right....LOL...because I listened to someone else instead of myself, which ended up costing me $35.00 for another CPS because there was not time to order online to get a better price from autoparts123.com (free shipping on orders $75.00 and up and there is a 10% discount most of the year with a coupon word, which you receive after your first order and then monthly via email (I think in October or November they usually have a 15% discount)) or from rockauto.com.
Being a female, most men will not believe me. It'* very frustrating, but I'm learning to deal with it. I've done a lot of mechanical work including replacing a crankshaft on a 1975 350 Chevy, so any mechanic here knows what that means. I pride myself in being self-sufficient and can wrench with the best of them (never a transmission of differential though), but there are always new things to deal with on every vehicle, the CPS replacement, being one of them. But as I said, in the end, when I did it my way, it was a success.
Best of Luck!
Ms. Shade Tree LOL