Understand that (my UIM aka plenium is aluminum). Was referring to the 7.3 lb-ft (88 lb-in) for the lower manifold to the head. That doesn't sound like enough to seal and an earlier poster said "You need ft/lbs for the LIM". Sounds to me like you need lb-in for both.

88 in lbs ISN'T enough for the LIM. Recently we discovered here that the '96 and '97 FSMs incorrectly identified the torque required to attach both the upper and lower intake manifolds. Here, see this thread:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...&highlight=uim

These FSMs had the torque values reversed for UIM and LIM.

The REAL value for the LIM bolts is 11 foot pounds

On the torque wrench...Don mentioned it and I'd like to elaborate.

12 inch pounds = 1 foot pound. Therefore if you get a small torque wrench that goes up to 180 inch pounds you should be more than covered.

Upper Intake: 89 in-lbs is approx = 7.5 ft-lbs approx = 10 newton meters
Lower Intake: 11 ft-lbs = 132 in-lbs approx = 15 newton meters

I got it!

We should update the TECHINFO article to include your hard won math...

The mission has been started. I spent 2.5 hrs today tearing it apart, labeling and bagging parts as I went. Pics will follow when I have time to upload them from the camera.

TB brace bolt whom ever designed that will be sitting next to the guy in hell that invented the fall-out little order cards that magazines have in them... What a PITA!!!

Tip#1 : using something long, like a 9" socket extension, feed it under the TB to the brace and whack that sob out of the way! It didn't take much force to pivot it.

Question - Whats the torque for the TB bolts? I couldn't find it anywhere.
Question - The top TB nut took out the threaded rod, I haven't looked at the new UIM, is that normal?

An original Upper with 144K miles on it, the stovepipe was caked with crud on the inside Had to be close to 75% blocked. The stovepipe apparently did not leak much or the leak was in the front and worked its way down into the stovepipe. I'm glad I stopped driving it when I did.

The TB itself looks fine from the front but from th back its just covered black like Don'* was. I've no idea what would cause that. I've got it soaking for a hopefully easy cleanup.

Fuel rail and injectors, gotta love those quick disconnects. It took me a minute to figure out how to; but once I spotted the tabs on the bottom all was good. The injectors came out much easier than I thought they would and are soaking too. (Can you tell I've never done this before?)

Question - Is there anything to service in the fuel rail itself?

Question - upon reassembly, where should I use sealant ?

Tomorrow - remove UIM, LIM, clean up, and begin reassembly

Thanks to everyone for helping!
Tim

Hey, We have a specifications section
and I found what I was looking for. (Imagine that!)
TB bolts torque to 20 ft-lbs.

Ummmm...were you referring to the nuts that attach the throttle body to the UIM? If so, I'm thinkin' 20 ft-lbs is WAY too much for those little 10mm nuts on 6mm studs. That 20 ft-lb spec is probably for the TB bolts for VIN C engines. Could find nothing in my '95 FSM for them, but Chilton'* 28200 gives 89 inch pounds for the throttle body to supercharger retaining nuts for VIN 1 engine, and that makes a lot more sense. 7.5 ft-lb will be just fine to squash that big soft throttle body gasket. Overtorquing these will just warp the TB sealing surface.

Question - The top TB nut took out the threaded rod, I haven't looked at the new UIM, is that normal?
A: Yeah, that'* pretty common. The new UIM will have new studs installed IIRC with thread lock on the threads for the nuts.

Question - Is there anything to service in the fuel rail itself?
A: Some like to put new o-rings on the injectors. At least put a little silicone on the o-rings before you install the rail. Will go easier that way.

Question - upon reassembly, where should I use sealant ?
A: I use blue loctite on both the LIM bolts and the UIM bolts. You need to get the oil off the parts for the Loctite to work. You might want to use brake cleaner in the holes with a Q-tip and blow 'em out with air if you have it. You will also want to wire brush the threads on the bolts so your torque readings will be closer to correct.