Tie rods
01-21-2011, 08:13 AM
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Tie rods
Tools -
* Ball joint fork = 9$ at Advance Auto Parts
* Large adjustable wrench = $14 at Lowes (Kobalt)
* Piece of pipe to slip over wrenches and break things loose
* Breaker bar = $18 at Advance Auto Parts
* Pitman arm puller = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Ball joint removal tool = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Grease Gun = $20 numerous places
* Full set of sockets
* Large Crowbar
* Good heavy hammer
* Large socket for axle nut, mine was 35mm
* I don't know how much your parts are going to be. I bought all mine off ebay I think my total after everything was $80 for OEM.
2.) TIE RODS
* Tie rods are pretty easy, after removing the wheel you plan to do first, remove the nut on the tie rod end that is attached to the spindle.
* After removing the nut, carefully tap the bolt with a hammer til it pops out.
* Then, at the end of the center link, there is a large nut, it may be covered with a rubber boot, but should be relatively easy to locate. Take your large adjustable or wrench of your choice (channel locks if you are super careful) and loosen that nut. Once you get it loose, you can remove the entire tie rod assembly in one piece, the end still attached to the inner.
* I took mine to my work bench, and with a measuring tape and some good eyes I took my new inner and outer tie rods and assembled them to the same length as the one I removed. By making sure everything is matching you alleviate having any Hugh problems with your alignment.
* Once everything is the same length and you have it tight and ready to install you can attach your grease fitting to the tie rod end.
* Installing your new assembly should be just as easy as removing the old one. Screw the entire tie rod assembly into the end of the center link, and slip the bolt on the tie rod end up through the ear on the spindle. The end that attaches to the center link can spin with some force since its new, so you can fasten it tight, and then twist the tie rod end until its able to go through the ear on the spindle.
* You can now tighten the nut on the tie rod end, and attach cotter pins if you have any. Repeat the steps for the other side, and be sure to grease the to joints (end and inner). Mine did not come pre-greased, make them plump, but DO NOT make them hard. More of a gooey consistency or you will bust the grease boot and it will be ruined.
* Ball joint fork = 9$ at Advance Auto Parts
* Large adjustable wrench = $14 at Lowes (Kobalt)
* Piece of pipe to slip over wrenches and break things loose
* Breaker bar = $18 at Advance Auto Parts
* Pitman arm puller = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Ball joint removal tool = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Grease Gun = $20 numerous places
* Full set of sockets
* Large Crowbar
* Good heavy hammer
* Large socket for axle nut, mine was 35mm
* I don't know how much your parts are going to be. I bought all mine off ebay I think my total after everything was $80 for OEM.
2.) TIE RODS
* Tie rods are pretty easy, after removing the wheel you plan to do first, remove the nut on the tie rod end that is attached to the spindle.
* After removing the nut, carefully tap the bolt with a hammer til it pops out.
* Then, at the end of the center link, there is a large nut, it may be covered with a rubber boot, but should be relatively easy to locate. Take your large adjustable or wrench of your choice (channel locks if you are super careful) and loosen that nut. Once you get it loose, you can remove the entire tie rod assembly in one piece, the end still attached to the inner.
* I took mine to my work bench, and with a measuring tape and some good eyes I took my new inner and outer tie rods and assembled them to the same length as the one I removed. By making sure everything is matching you alleviate having any Hugh problems with your alignment.
* Once everything is the same length and you have it tight and ready to install you can attach your grease fitting to the tie rod end.
* Installing your new assembly should be just as easy as removing the old one. Screw the entire tie rod assembly into the end of the center link, and slip the bolt on the tie rod end up through the ear on the spindle. The end that attaches to the center link can spin with some force since its new, so you can fasten it tight, and then twist the tie rod end until its able to go through the ear on the spindle.
* You can now tighten the nut on the tie rod end, and attach cotter pins if you have any. Repeat the steps for the other side, and be sure to grease the to joints (end and inner). Mine did not come pre-greased, make them plump, but DO NOT make them hard. More of a gooey consistency or you will bust the grease boot and it will be ruined.
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