Before starting any fuel work pull the pump relay, and crank the engine to relive fuel pressure and make sure by putting a rag over the schrader valve on the rail and pressing the pin.
These are the parts I used to replace a rusted metal section under my 07 Monte, but should be similar on other cars, you would have a filter you would have to include on cars and trucks before 05-06. you would just have to get the 3/8 plastic connectors and install them like the barbed fitting i show below
I got everything listed at the local Carquest
If your car has a return and you want to replace it you will need these parts in 5/16 as well
25 ft of 3/8 nylon fuel hose
3/8 barbed to 3/8 barbed fittings
3/8 fuel injection clamps
lisle 37500 tool for disconnecting the metal type fuel lines
Coupler for adapting 3/8 metal to 3/8 nylon dorman 800-223. You could also use 800-035 which just has barbs on one side instead. I used what I used because they were the only parts available locally at car quest. I got two in case i messed one up. I also started with the metal part on the rail side because no one had the metal type connector, if you have the plastic type you can just get plastic connectors (readily available at the stores) and start there.
Metal connector on the left, plastic type on the right. the tool I show is for the metal type only the plastic type you just push in wiggle it a little, squeeze the white tabs in with pliers then pull out
For the tank side you need barbed connectors and fuel line clamps, as I mentioned pre 05-06 you would just put a filter there with plastic connectors.
Istarted with the tank side, you need to get rid of the stock plastic connector, you can just cut the line back because you cant save the part that is stretched over the fitting. cut it square then stick the line in hot water for a few minutes, i found it easier to hold it with a flaring tool line holder just snugged down(dont go crazy just light pressure). then I put a little oil on the barbed fitting and jam it in the plastic. sort of a one shot deal its not real easy to move once you stop.
Then you put the clamps on the fitting i put two on one at a time starting with the furthest away clamp the square part with big side cutters till it becomes a tee, just stop before it cuts the metal.
Then put two clamps on the new line, soak the end in hot water, oil the fitting and jam it on, keep going till it hits the middle. slow is not the way to go. it will stop then it will end up kinking(not good). then move your clamp to position and crimp them down.
You have to avoid kinking the new plastic so i found it easier to tie it to the car as your going because the line twists as you pull it and running it up to the engine it ends up kinking as it twists. i cut some 3/8 id rubber tube in sections wherever it might touch or where i zip tied it to the old clamps. I did'nt clamp it to the old line or brake lines you dont want to rub through any of those.
by the engine you need to find a good section of metal that you can get a tubing cutter into, cut has to be square and other methods oval the tube and the compression connector wont work if you oval the tube. clean the burr out of the tube making sure nothing gets in the tube.
The side with the brass collar is for the metal, side the cap and collar over the metal tube, hold the connector tight on the tube, then bring the cap over to it and tighten it down. the plastic part is pretty tough to fit in the cap and plastic collar, i used a knife to slightly bevel the tube and a little oil (make sure the end is square and clear of burrs and such) i just used a utility knife to cut the tube. after you put the cap and collar on put it in the connector and tighten the cap down
To test put put the relay back and turn the key to run let it prime, after it turns off turn the key back off and turn it back on. go over you connections and check for leaks. i covered the connectors with more rubber line after checking to be sure they dont leak.