So a crack appeared on the plastic part of my radiator and it'* now time to replace it. Cool part of this job is you do not need to raise the car to make the repairs, but you do need to before you by a new radiator so you can verify what kind you need, to see If you have a coolant level sensor and if you have an engine oil cooler.
If you have a coolant level sensor you it will be on the passenger side of the radiator on the plastic end cap about half way down. Between the trans-cooler lines You will see a sensor with a wire.
If you have an engine oil cooler you will have lines on the top and bottom of the plastic end cap on the Drivers side
not the passenger side those are the cooler lines for your transmission.
First you need to wait to let the car cool down and then verify that cooling system is not pressurized by slowly unscrewing the radiator cap about a 1/4 turn.
Next hit the trans lines and oil lines, if you have them with, a penetrating oil so when you take them off it will be easy:
As you are waiting you can take off the air box by taking off the mounting screws, the two screws that hold the two halves together, and loosening the intake pipe clamp.
The back half will come right out when you pull off the tube, the front half you will need to pull on it firmly to pop off the mounting grommet.
Now remove the overflow tank hose. This is the hose that connects to the radiator right next to the cap. Take it off and place it so coolant isn't pouring out of the hose.
Now you need to drain the system. Finish taking off the cap, then open the drain **** - it'* located on the bottom corner on the driver side. You will need a pan that will hold at least gallon and a half of liquid.
Next you need to disconnect the hoses upper and lower. Just loosen the hose clamps and slide off. Need to twist a bit if the hose is stuck. Take it easy and be patient. Now might be a good time to just replace the hoses. The choice and decision is up to you.
Now you can remove the upper fan mounting bolts. The fans can stay on the car just tilt them out a bit,
Now working on the trans lines. But a small pan under the car to catch the drip. It'* small amount but enough to make a mess:
Be careful maneuvering these lines. You don't want to snap them:
Same procedure for the oil lines
Now time to take off the top support:
Once you pull off the top support you can slide the radiator back out.
Now is a time to check the rubber supports for the radiator to see if they are in good condition. Also a good time to hose down the radiator support to clear debris and junk. Be careful not to get water in the oil or trans lines.
Once you have everything clean and set Just put everything back together in reverse order.
When re connecting the trans line be careful. These lines are flared. Slide in and make sure they fit perfectly or you will get leaks. You should be able to finger tighten the nuts that hold them in if you slid them in right. Need to be careful not to strip treads. Or a transmission fluid leak is in your future.
Once everything is buttoned up replace the fluids with fresh antifreeze 50/50 antifreeze and water mix. Fill up the radiator then start the car. Filling with more 50/50 coolant as the car sucks it in and removes the air pockets. Open the pressure relief valve located on the top of the thermostat housing to bleed out the air. You may need to do this several times, especially after the thermostat opens up - be careful or you can get burned. Once the system is bleed off, then fill your over flow reservoir to the hot line. You may need to add more 50/50 mix after the car has cooled down. Just fill to the cold line.
Also check your transmission and oil levels too. Check the whole system for leaks. If all checks out well. You should be set with your new Radiator.
97SE-180*stat, Gutted Air Box, Green Air Filter, Rear Air Shocks
^Future^- HV3, Stage 2 Heads, L26 Upper, P&P LIM, LS6 VS, LS1 Retainers, N* TB, LQ4 Maf, CAI, 65-HD Trans, GT2 cam, SSEi sway ES links