Finally finished the S10 interior (new radio, speakers, speaker grills, defrost grill), and replacement of left and right mirrors. Neither mirror works with the electric adjustment switch- will be heading to pull apart, hopefully only a switch and they are super easy to swap out.

Put the S10 on jack stands. Did an inspection, needs front brakes, new oil lines, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings. I also discovered left front CV axle boot seperated, the axle will need replacement. Huge play turning either wheel left or right from 3-9, I am assuming tie rods shot.

What I can't figure out, is how there is no play from 12-6 in either wheel. This S10 has 180,000 miles and original ball joints. The ball joints failed in Bravada with similar configuration at 75k miles.

Have to figure out how the torsion bar comes into play if I remove the lower control arms.... I know it is supposed to be a big safety issue and a special tool that costs around $100 is good to have when working with torsion bars.

When your done with all that, you can come up and do mine.

Be happy to. Fought through replacing the cv axles and oem ball joints on the Bravada, hopefully this will be a bit easier. Only difference is Bravada was 75k miles when I tore apart the front suspension, the S10 is at 180k- not sure how things are going to come apart. Already regret not trying to break the wheel hub nut while the tires were still on.

Do you need your front suspension worked on? I'd be game for a road trip...

Thanks, but I think I'm good for now. I just got done doing the 2.5" exhaust on it yesterday.

Pulled the rear oil lines of the S10 late yesterday. Brutally tough to break the 13mm bolts. The 10mm nut the mounts to the engine was near impossible to access. I can't imagine what GM engineers were thinking when they designed the remote oil filer location on the S10. I haven't even started on the front remote oil lines that go to the radiator.

This is what I installed in my S10.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g4985-1/overview/

How happy are you with it? How was the installation?

i would inspect the steering gear while someone moves the wheel, the pitman should move without any play following the input from the shaft. the pitman and idler like to wear out on that type of setup too, any wierd movement and it needs replaced. he half tons are the same design and i had to replace everything from the steering gear out, except the drag link it doesnt wear, at 160k when i got it. dont put alot of miles on mine so i just got the whole ebay kit like a 120 or so with ball joints, end links, everything in the steering, just had to get the gear box, at advance with the p20 20% off

It'* semi-custom install. I'm not sure with the V6 model, but I had to get an adapter for the kit so it would mount to the block.

In the photo below, you will see a ring. I believe this to be an enlarging ring to facilitate larger engines such as V8'*. I do know the V6 uses a smaller cooler adapter vs the bigger V8.



If you look on page 2, you will see how it is all put together with the adapter installed on the filter adapter, but the adapter must be installed in the engine first. Which is separate from the kit.
https://www.gmforum.com/gmc-chevrole...-305170/page2/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-2015/overview/

As far as the filter mount, I removed the factory mount and just used one of the existing bolts and mounted the new one to it with a single nut. I think I have pics somewhere around here..oh yea, found it...

Oh and sneaking those 2 lines by the forward transfer case output shaft can be a tad tricky. Some zip ties and wire loom keep the hoses from rubbing against the yoke.