So this one is for those who need visual to troubleshoot. Check it out. I'm chasing down electrical gremlins currently to figure out why the car doesn't want to rev past 3k in manual 1st or 2k in manual 2nd. On top of that, I'm trying to figure out why my transmission absolutely will NOT shift the way it should. In the end of the vid, you can watch when I put it in drive. It doesn't seem like it even shifts, just goes into high gear right away. It'* 15 megs and one minute long. The CEL is from a P0400 code, EGR Circuit Malfunction. Could be why I can't rev, but I'm not sure on that one yet. Let me know what you guys think.


http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y53...100_0016-1.flv


*edit*
For the (not so)complete info on the car.
95 Thunderbird LX 4.6L SOHC
2000 Crown Victoria 4R70W /w extra clutches and an 8 tooth output shaft
2004 Mercury Marauder TC

*edit*
Just so you understand how important it is to me to figure out what'* wrong, I actually cried because I haven't been able to fix it. I really need this ol' girl running.


*edit*
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y53...t=100_0018.flv

just a 12 meg video of the car running, showing 30% load value, 20% throttle, and the RPM as it sits idleing in park. Language warning in this one.

do any of the diagnostics tell you if you run against a govorner, or do they just reflect the drop in engine rpm, etc?

the tach signal, does it go from the ecm to the dash, or is there one system for the gauge and one for the ecm?

Running against a governer shouldn't be an issue. I can freewheel the engine in neutral to whatever RPM I want, and speed would most likely be governed before RPM. I could have miswired something, however, all of the pertinent wires that deal with the fueling, and ignition timing have been quadruple checked to be okay. I have to retract my statement and say that the RPM is sent from the EEC to the gauge cluster, or maybe from the EDIS. I suppose that in all of my jacking around with the car, the EDIS could have been zapped, which would certainly affect the firing. I'll have to ask another guy with a bird to check his idle timing advance and see if it parallels with mine. Could be something.

Got some info on what to do to check out the EGR to make sure it'* functioning properly. I can honestly see it as being jammed because I had the manifolds sitting open, exposed to whatever for a few weeks when I was pulling the old trans and waiting for the new one.

Thanks for the response, rjolly. I'll now check out my EDIS to make sure it'* not fried. I can't seem to find any of my wires as being crossed at least.

does the computer see vehicle speed? are you able to see what speed the computer is seeing? is it just cable to the back of the instrument cluster?

Electronic. EEC tells me what to see.

I have a chip to account for the 8 tooth output shaft, and the gears. I also have a speedcal, as well as the proper speedo gear to give me an accurate reading. None of it made any difference. I used two different output shaft sensors, two different vehicle speed sensors, two tunes, two known good eec'*, comepletely rewired EEC harness to make sure I had no broken wires anywhere. It'* got me stumped! The craziest part is that it shows 30% load at idle, and 20% TPS. It'* a new TPS.

Okay, now I'm not sure this is how Ford does their TPS sensors, but on most of the cars I've seen, you have to fit the balde of the sensor into the slot on the throttle shaft (or vice versa), then twist it slightly before you tighten it down. On most of the TPSs like this, it is fairly easy to mis-position the blades so that the sensor is not matched up properly. Could this be what happened to you?

Again, I don't know if Ford does theirs this way, but Mopar does, and I've made the mistake myself. Usually it just results in some wonky-ness with low RPM throttle response and running pig rich.

The TPS is operated by a blade on the throttle shaft. The old sensor had a bad return spring in so it wouldn't return to 0%. The new one returns to 0%, but still reads 20% throttle. Even at 0% TPS the engine shows 27%-30% load....

Perhaps the EEC needs reset to relearn 0%?

It'* on it'* 2nd EEC, 1st one got fried. This current one is a reman, and so you know, I also tried a 3rd, known good EEC from a friend. It'* either in the wiring, or the transmission. What I need to do is hook up some lights to the shift solenoid wires and see if they are being commanded to engage 2nd/3rd/4th, or if it'* happening hydraulically. I should note that I can go WOT in manual 1st with the wheels in the air and get to redline, but it doesn't want to. If I actually drive it on the road and hold the throttle at one position, the car bucks around.

When in drive, and the vehicle is rolling, if I pull it down into manual 2nd or manual 1st, it holds whatever gear it was in while in drive and will not downshift until the car is completely stationary. It absolutely has no downshift, under any throttle conditions.

To put out a little more information that may be relevant, the car originally came with a 7 tooth output shaft. The trans in it has an 8 tooth output shaft. The OSS and VSS tell the EEC how fast it'* moving. As I think I've said, I've tried two different sensors of each to no avail.

I appreciate all of your guys help. Hopefully between you and the few people I talk to outside of BC, we can get it figured out.

To any who may think they have something, but aren't sure, fire it at me anyways. Any little thing I could have overlooked. Anything at all is a step further than I'm at now.

I am open to just about any avenue of approach to diagnose and fix this thing. Just don't ask me to get a new car, as that option is out of the question Mine means too much to me

Got your PM. My first instinct is that it'* a shifting/revving under load issue. You're either looking at a sensor input (MAP?, TPS?) or a computer issue.