I have a basic understanding on how to run air lines in my garage, but is there someone on this forum that can guide me through the layout process? If so I'll post what material'* I 've got and the set up I'm hoping to have. If I have a layout of how everything will be, than I can purchase the remainder and get to it.


These are the diagrams that I'm using as my reference.

How involved is your setup expected to be? Since I've not seen your garage and don't know it'* size, I'll ask for that too. How many drops are you wanting? Two? One on each side?

For an average garage, I can't see the need for more than one dryer/filter setup and one drain in addition to the compressor mounted drain. The other drain is normally placed at the lowest point close to the end of the run.

Are you planning on running steel with pipe threaded connections or glued HD PVC lines?

Where will the compressor be located?

Before I put up a picture of the garage and set up I'll give you some details:

-it'* a double car garage.
-Compressor is in the cold cellar which is right beside and lower than the garage; therefore compressor is remote.
-I'm going to use 3/4 copper pipe, the thicker gauge (L or M can't remember)
-I have 2 air dryers with disiccant pellets.
There will be 2 drops one is on a retractable hose real with 50' of air line. Other will be up to 150' which consists of qty 8, 25’ detachable hose.
I already have the shut offs and copper connectors but no gauges past the compressor and no oil line lubricant.

Disiccant Air Dryer
It'* the yellow one that'* 37" long

It'* page 144 or pg 14 of 58.
http://208.106.248.76/pal/pdf/05_AirAndPowerTools.pdf


EDIT: I don't know how to post pictures of the layout.

You're right about the oiler and paint Darrel I had forgotten about that.

I think I will put regulators on both drops although it may be harder to do that with the retractable hose real since it'* mounted to the cieling.

Just a few observations.

- why the 6" to 8" riser just before each drop? Is that to minimize on condensation?
- Why the need for so many unions, especially just before each air filter?
-does the 3/4" copper air line change to 1/2" for each drop?
- in 2 cases the piping is extended after the final drop to include an extra drop for a ball valve drain, why if the last drop already has one?

This is going to be more costly and involved that I thought. Man O Man.

Personally I would run the line to the garge, T it from the closer wall (to the basement) up to the reel and be done. Have your regulator in the garage and the oiler able to be bypassed.

I'm going to have to lay it out and then see what additional material I'm going to have to purchase.

At the moment I'm assembling wire shelving, then I'm going to have to figure out how the heck I'm suppose to support it to the wall starting at 6 ft high and be able to support 500 lbs. for each shelving unit.

Water will get in the lines no matter how many water traps and filters you have in the system. The risers are necessary because any water that gets in the lines is heavier than air. The air goes up and the water stays in the line. The four inch drop in 50 feet is to keep the water in the lines flowing downstream instead of backing up and filling the lines. It is gravity doing its job. I would drop it more than 4", starting at the ceiling just off the compressor and dropping to the floor at the end. Just leave enough space to hold a drain jug under the final leg drain.
The velocity of the air flow can carry the water up through the risers, but they are still a good idea.