Intercooled Turbo '91 Cutlass Supreme sedan *FOR SALE/TRADE*
01-28-2007, 01:31 PM
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Intercooled Turbo '91 Cutlass Supreme sedan *FOR SALE/TRADE*
1991 Cutlass Supreme sedan
$2250 FIRM. this car is FAR from stock of course but is very dependable IMO despite the high miles. current mods:
- Turbocharged 'LH0' engine using TGP parts in summer of 2005. new Melling HV oil pump and timing chain set installed along with new gaskets and seals everywhere. runs GREAT! i've used Mobil-1 10w30 ONLY. TGP heads were hot tanked, bead blasted, slightly resurfaced and rebuilt with a 3 angle valve job by Gillette Machine Shop in Gillette Wyoming (the guy that did the work is a 3800 nut and owns a '94 Bonneville SSEi and a '97 GTP).
- Getrag HM-282 5-speed swap done back in 2002 (98% bolt-in ordeal), shifts smoothly, no funny noises etc. clutch replaced (LUK) in 2005 when i turbocharged the engine. GM Syncromesh fluid always stays clean. transmission does leak a little bit, which is a typical problem for the Getrag 282s. it'* leaking from between where the bellhousing bolts to the transmission itself (NOT between the bellhousing and block!...the bellhousing on the Getrag 282 is actually separate from the transmission case). the case isn't cracked or anything.
- custom KAZ MotorSports dyno tuned chip using WB02 of course (the site admin over at tgpforums.com owns KAZ MotorSports (and two Turbo Grand Prixs) and believe me he knows what he'* doing!) tuning was done on a DynoDynamics machine NOT a DynoJet which is practicaly useless for tuning IMHO. the stock TGP EPROM was replaced with an EEPROM, and editing to the chip was done with TunerPro RT software and a Moates Ostrich emulator. all tuning was done while the car was being driven on the dyno. i dyno'd the car at DynoPros in Denver with the RMCGP group dyno day in October 2005 and it made 227whp & 325 ft/lbs of torque at the wheels. that was with sub 10:1 A/F, so obviously the car needed to be tuned. since the KAZ MotorSports tune the car is MUCH faster, ecspecially up top. the car now pulls much harder in 3rd and 4th gear (i've never went WOT in 5th - that'* just too fast for me and i don't need a ticket). traction is still an issue in 1st and 2nd gear but that could be resolved cheaply and easily with staged boost control. or you could just upgrade the turbo with something that has a little more lag and would allow for more power up top
the stock Garrrett T25 spools so damn fast that it'* no wonder traction is so limited down low. on the bright side the lack of turbo lag does make the car alot of fun to drive on the street! it literally has next to NO lag at all right now. 325 ft/lbs of torque @ 3200 RPM - not bad after tuning was done i am "guessing" the car would put down ~255whp & 360 ft/lbs of torque at the wheels if i were to go back to DynoPros and dyno again. several RMCGP guys tested their cars on the same day with no changes between dyno sessions and found there to be a 38-40% difference in numbers between the two shops. this is because KAZ uses a DynoDynamics machine (far superior IMHO) and DynoPros uses a DynoJet so the numbers are not directly comparable. i just haven't gotten a chance to dyno at DynoPros again to see what it would actually put down on a DynoJet. i'd like to, but i live 6hrs away from Denver.
anyway....onto the other mods....
- rebuilt turbo crossover pipe with SS flex bellows by M&* Productions
- custom fabbed stainless steel turbo support bracket (needed for use with 5-speed swap since the transmission shield on stock Turbo Grand Prixs had an integrated turbo support bracket on the 4T60HD transmission).
- K&N cone filter directly on compressor inlet
- M&M Racing manual boost controller
- TurboXS RFL BOV on lower pipe
- ATPTurbo SS T-bolt clamps for all intercooler pipe connections including the air filter
- ATPTurbo silicone oil drain hose
- A-pillar pod with Autometer Phantom series mechanical boost gauge and narrowband A/F gauge
- deleted EGR and installed a Turbos Unleashed vacuum distribution block in its place (has 3 extra ports that could be used to source MAP, FPR, hobbs switch for alky injection etc). right now it'* only sourcing the boost gauge.
- test pipe in place of cat
- now has fake dual outlet exhaust from my old Turbo STE
- deleted all underhood AC (to make room for FMIC which i never got to)
- Magnecor KV85 spark plug wires
- 16x8 '94 Grand Prix GTP crosslace wheels
- FFP billet aluminum dogbone motor mounts (polyurethane inserts)
- adjustable rear coilovers in the rear replaced the original transversely mounted fiberglass monoleaf spring. the rear end can literally be slammed to the ground or raised about 2" above stock ride height very easily.
i will include with the car (not installed):
- 34mm front sway bar from a Lumina Z34
- 22mm rear Addco bar with all installation parts/hardware
- extra shifter and set of shifter cables
- set of '94 3100 1.6 rockers
- an extra TGP intercooler and TGP intercooler fan
- GM W-body front strut installation tool
- a good running TGP 'LG5' engine (so long as you pick it up!). this engine does not have any turbo specific parts left on it besides the cylinder heads, oil-to-water cooler and the oil pan. it came out of my old Turbo STE and ran great when i pulled it out. i've been keeping it in the corner of my garage just in case something happened to the current engine i could simply unbolt the turbo parts from it then bolt them onto the 'LG5' & drop it back in the car and go.
new parts since summer/fall 2006:
- turbo has been replaced (a used Garrett T25 stock TGP turbo but in great shape, NO shaft play, NO smoke etc)
- new K&N air filter (RU-1770)
- new 245/50 Kumho ECSTA 711 tires installed last month (maybe 300 miles on them)
- new KYB GR-2 struts all around
- new KYB strut mounts all around
- '96 11.25" upgraded front brakes with new rotors and Raybestos PG Plus semi-metallic pads. this requred the entire front strut/knuckes to be replaced (100% bolt in) to accomadate the larger rotor. the strut/knuckle assemblies came from a 49,xxx mile '96 Cutlass Supreme. the original front rotors were only 10.5"!
- '94+ 11.0" upgraded rear disc brakes were done a few years ago BUT the rotors were just replaced along with new Raybestos PG Plus semi-metallic pads. the original rear rotors were only 10.1" and the '88-'93 calipers were CRAP design and notorious for sieziing up. this is no longer an issue. this upgrade was completely bolt-in however the downside is the parking brake cables are not compatible with the new design calipers.
- new Intrax 1.7" drop front springs
- new AFCO Racing rear coilover sleeves and adjuster nuts
- new GM balljoints (greaseable)
- not new, but it now has dual outlet exhaust from my old Turbo STE
- the waterpump was also replaced in April of 2006
- KAZ MotorSports dyno tuned chip
took these pics a few days ago:
http://www.turbosedan.com/cutlass/01_24_07
*note: i have never once waxed or claybarred the paint since i've owned it and i'm sure that would make the car look MUCH better.
recent interior pics here:
http://gmwbody.com/viewtopic.php?t=297&start=15
recent underhood pics here:
http://gmwbody.com/viewtopic.php?t=199
i just bought a new Walbro 255 HP fuel pump today and it will be going in when it gets here along with a new fuel filter of course. i have an extra set of 'BYP' side skirting to replace the warped/ripped 'BYP' side skirting that is on the car right now. i'll be replacing that when i do the fuel pump. i'll also get pics of the underside of the car while i'm at it showing that it is bone dry/clean.
problems:
- HIGH miles (around 240,000-250,000) i know this scares alot of people off :( BUT i've owned this car since April of 2000 with 111,xxx miles and have ALWAYS taken VERY good care of it. i do not beat on my cars and i don't do hacked fixes/mods!
- windshield has an 18" long crack way over on the left side. it'* not in my view so i never bothered to replace it.
- gas gauge is inaccurate. it will stay on 'full' forever and then run out of gas when the gauge reads 1/4 of a tank. i will try to address this problem when i replace the fuel pump.
- rear driver'* side window only rolls up 98% of the way. i haven't noticed much wind noise, and the only time water gets in is when i'm at the car wash. the window was smashed out a few years ago and i suspect a chunk of broken glass is stuck in the regulator or something. i also lost the door handle trim but that'* easy to find at a salvage yard for $5 (see pics).
- has HUD but dashpad is warped badly
- carpet is worn/dirty in front
- has a small dent on front fender, the paint pretty much sucks on the front bumper and has a small rip in it, some paint flaking off on the rear driver'* side door, two small door dings on passenger side rear door and a paint chip about the size of a half dollar, some fading on the rear bumper etc. all of this can be seen in the pics.
- i installed new KYB jounce bumper/boots but unfortunately they are not compatible with the amount of drop the Intrax springs provide. the front of the car literally sits on the jounce bumpers right now, resulting in a bouncy ride in town (not noticeable on the highway). they are also preventing the front of the car from sitting as low as it should. some cheap Monroe jounce bumpers and boots will fix the problem, and can be installed easily through the top (from underhood - you don't even need to raise the car off the ground or take the wheels off) with the GM W-body strut tool that will be included for this purpose. FWIW, the way it rides right now really isn't that bad.
- sets code 32 when driving on the highway. this is because i delteted EGR and forgot to have Kenny turn off the EGR function in the chip when i had the car tuned. it'* not hurting anything at all, but the SES light is kind of annoying. it never comes on during city driving; only when i'm driving on the highway for over 10 miles or so.
any questions just ask. i'm willing to deliver either car so long as the buyer pays my gas on the way out and a bus ticket home. if i deliver the Cutlass i obviously can't bring the extra 'LG5' with so if you want that you'll need to come and pick it up!
this car has NO rust, no hail damage, and TONS of new parts since summer 2006. it'* 5 times more fun to drive than my Regal GS but half the price this car is MUCH faster than my '98 Regal GS and a helluva lot more fun to drive ecspecially being that it has a Getrag 5-speed manual transmission. i would expect the car to run a very very low 14 second ET at around 100mph at or close to sea level with a good launch/track prep but that'* all speculation. the dyno numbers certainly support that. there are no dragstrips near me. well...there is one about 2hrs away but they are only open 3 months out of the year and unfortunately i was in the middle of doing alot of work to my car last summer so i never had a chance to run it. that track is also at 5000ft....ugh.
i have TONS of pics hosted on my server right now so if you want to see anything in particular or have any questions just ask
EDIT: i'll still consider a trade for a RUST FREE '92-'95 Bonneville SSEi or possibly a non */C SSE so long as no BS is involved like my previous thread
thanks
Joshua Mitchell
$2250 FIRM. this car is FAR from stock of course but is very dependable IMO despite the high miles. current mods:
- Turbocharged 'LH0' engine using TGP parts in summer of 2005. new Melling HV oil pump and timing chain set installed along with new gaskets and seals everywhere. runs GREAT! i've used Mobil-1 10w30 ONLY. TGP heads were hot tanked, bead blasted, slightly resurfaced and rebuilt with a 3 angle valve job by Gillette Machine Shop in Gillette Wyoming (the guy that did the work is a 3800 nut and owns a '94 Bonneville SSEi and a '97 GTP).
- Getrag HM-282 5-speed swap done back in 2002 (98% bolt-in ordeal), shifts smoothly, no funny noises etc. clutch replaced (LUK) in 2005 when i turbocharged the engine. GM Syncromesh fluid always stays clean. transmission does leak a little bit, which is a typical problem for the Getrag 282s. it'* leaking from between where the bellhousing bolts to the transmission itself (NOT between the bellhousing and block!...the bellhousing on the Getrag 282 is actually separate from the transmission case). the case isn't cracked or anything.
- custom KAZ MotorSports dyno tuned chip using WB02 of course (the site admin over at tgpforums.com owns KAZ MotorSports (and two Turbo Grand Prixs) and believe me he knows what he'* doing!) tuning was done on a DynoDynamics machine NOT a DynoJet which is practicaly useless for tuning IMHO. the stock TGP EPROM was replaced with an EEPROM, and editing to the chip was done with TunerPro RT software and a Moates Ostrich emulator. all tuning was done while the car was being driven on the dyno. i dyno'd the car at DynoPros in Denver with the RMCGP group dyno day in October 2005 and it made 227whp & 325 ft/lbs of torque at the wheels. that was with sub 10:1 A/F, so obviously the car needed to be tuned. since the KAZ MotorSports tune the car is MUCH faster, ecspecially up top. the car now pulls much harder in 3rd and 4th gear (i've never went WOT in 5th - that'* just too fast for me and i don't need a ticket). traction is still an issue in 1st and 2nd gear but that could be resolved cheaply and easily with staged boost control. or you could just upgrade the turbo with something that has a little more lag and would allow for more power up top
the stock Garrrett T25 spools so damn fast that it'* no wonder traction is so limited down low. on the bright side the lack of turbo lag does make the car alot of fun to drive on the street! it literally has next to NO lag at all right now. 325 ft/lbs of torque @ 3200 RPM - not bad after tuning was done i am "guessing" the car would put down ~255whp & 360 ft/lbs of torque at the wheels if i were to go back to DynoPros and dyno again. several RMCGP guys tested their cars on the same day with no changes between dyno sessions and found there to be a 38-40% difference in numbers between the two shops. this is because KAZ uses a DynoDynamics machine (far superior IMHO) and DynoPros uses a DynoJet so the numbers are not directly comparable. i just haven't gotten a chance to dyno at DynoPros again to see what it would actually put down on a DynoJet. i'd like to, but i live 6hrs away from Denver.anyway....onto the other mods....
- rebuilt turbo crossover pipe with SS flex bellows by M&* Productions
- custom fabbed stainless steel turbo support bracket (needed for use with 5-speed swap since the transmission shield on stock Turbo Grand Prixs had an integrated turbo support bracket on the 4T60HD transmission).
- K&N cone filter directly on compressor inlet
- M&M Racing manual boost controller
- TurboXS RFL BOV on lower pipe
- ATPTurbo SS T-bolt clamps for all intercooler pipe connections including the air filter
- ATPTurbo silicone oil drain hose
- A-pillar pod with Autometer Phantom series mechanical boost gauge and narrowband A/F gauge
- deleted EGR and installed a Turbos Unleashed vacuum distribution block in its place (has 3 extra ports that could be used to source MAP, FPR, hobbs switch for alky injection etc). right now it'* only sourcing the boost gauge.
- test pipe in place of cat
- now has fake dual outlet exhaust from my old Turbo STE
- deleted all underhood AC (to make room for FMIC which i never got to)
- Magnecor KV85 spark plug wires
- 16x8 '94 Grand Prix GTP crosslace wheels
- FFP billet aluminum dogbone motor mounts (polyurethane inserts)
- adjustable rear coilovers in the rear replaced the original transversely mounted fiberglass monoleaf spring. the rear end can literally be slammed to the ground or raised about 2" above stock ride height very easily.
i will include with the car (not installed):
- 34mm front sway bar from a Lumina Z34
- 22mm rear Addco bar with all installation parts/hardware
- extra shifter and set of shifter cables
- set of '94 3100 1.6 rockers
- an extra TGP intercooler and TGP intercooler fan
- GM W-body front strut installation tool
- a good running TGP 'LG5' engine (so long as you pick it up!). this engine does not have any turbo specific parts left on it besides the cylinder heads, oil-to-water cooler and the oil pan. it came out of my old Turbo STE and ran great when i pulled it out. i've been keeping it in the corner of my garage just in case something happened to the current engine i could simply unbolt the turbo parts from it then bolt them onto the 'LG5' & drop it back in the car and go.
new parts since summer/fall 2006:
- turbo has been replaced (a used Garrett T25 stock TGP turbo but in great shape, NO shaft play, NO smoke etc)
- new K&N air filter (RU-1770)
- new 245/50 Kumho ECSTA 711 tires installed last month (maybe 300 miles on them)
- new KYB GR-2 struts all around
- new KYB strut mounts all around
- '96 11.25" upgraded front brakes with new rotors and Raybestos PG Plus semi-metallic pads. this requred the entire front strut/knuckes to be replaced (100% bolt in) to accomadate the larger rotor. the strut/knuckle assemblies came from a 49,xxx mile '96 Cutlass Supreme. the original front rotors were only 10.5"!
- '94+ 11.0" upgraded rear disc brakes were done a few years ago BUT the rotors were just replaced along with new Raybestos PG Plus semi-metallic pads. the original rear rotors were only 10.1" and the '88-'93 calipers were CRAP design and notorious for sieziing up. this is no longer an issue. this upgrade was completely bolt-in however the downside is the parking brake cables are not compatible with the new design calipers.
- new Intrax 1.7" drop front springs
- new AFCO Racing rear coilover sleeves and adjuster nuts
- new GM balljoints (greaseable)
- not new, but it now has dual outlet exhaust from my old Turbo STE
- the waterpump was also replaced in April of 2006
- KAZ MotorSports dyno tuned chip
took these pics a few days ago:
http://www.turbosedan.com/cutlass/01_24_07
*note: i have never once waxed or claybarred the paint since i've owned it and i'm sure that would make the car look MUCH better.
recent interior pics here:
http://gmwbody.com/viewtopic.php?t=297&start=15
recent underhood pics here:
http://gmwbody.com/viewtopic.php?t=199
i just bought a new Walbro 255 HP fuel pump today and it will be going in when it gets here along with a new fuel filter of course. i have an extra set of 'BYP' side skirting to replace the warped/ripped 'BYP' side skirting that is on the car right now. i'll be replacing that when i do the fuel pump. i'll also get pics of the underside of the car while i'm at it showing that it is bone dry/clean.
problems:
- HIGH miles (around 240,000-250,000) i know this scares alot of people off :( BUT i've owned this car since April of 2000 with 111,xxx miles and have ALWAYS taken VERY good care of it. i do not beat on my cars and i don't do hacked fixes/mods!
- windshield has an 18" long crack way over on the left side. it'* not in my view so i never bothered to replace it.
- gas gauge is inaccurate. it will stay on 'full' forever and then run out of gas when the gauge reads 1/4 of a tank. i will try to address this problem when i replace the fuel pump.
- rear driver'* side window only rolls up 98% of the way. i haven't noticed much wind noise, and the only time water gets in is when i'm at the car wash. the window was smashed out a few years ago and i suspect a chunk of broken glass is stuck in the regulator or something. i also lost the door handle trim but that'* easy to find at a salvage yard for $5 (see pics).
- has HUD but dashpad is warped badly
- carpet is worn/dirty in front
- has a small dent on front fender, the paint pretty much sucks on the front bumper and has a small rip in it, some paint flaking off on the rear driver'* side door, two small door dings on passenger side rear door and a paint chip about the size of a half dollar, some fading on the rear bumper etc. all of this can be seen in the pics.
- i installed new KYB jounce bumper/boots but unfortunately they are not compatible with the amount of drop the Intrax springs provide. the front of the car literally sits on the jounce bumpers right now, resulting in a bouncy ride in town (not noticeable on the highway). they are also preventing the front of the car from sitting as low as it should. some cheap Monroe jounce bumpers and boots will fix the problem, and can be installed easily through the top (from underhood - you don't even need to raise the car off the ground or take the wheels off) with the GM W-body strut tool that will be included for this purpose. FWIW, the way it rides right now really isn't that bad.
- sets code 32 when driving on the highway. this is because i delteted EGR and forgot to have Kenny turn off the EGR function in the chip when i had the car tuned. it'* not hurting anything at all, but the SES light is kind of annoying. it never comes on during city driving; only when i'm driving on the highway for over 10 miles or so.
any questions just ask. i'm willing to deliver either car so long as the buyer pays my gas on the way out and a bus ticket home. if i deliver the Cutlass i obviously can't bring the extra 'LG5' with so if you want that you'll need to come and pick it up!
this car has NO rust, no hail damage, and TONS of new parts since summer 2006. it'* 5 times more fun to drive than my Regal GS but half the price
this car is MUCH faster than my '98 Regal GS and a helluva lot more fun to drive ecspecially being that it has a Getrag 5-speed manual transmission. i would expect the car to run a very very low 14 second ET at around 100mph at or close to sea level with a good launch/track prep but that'* all speculation. the dyno numbers certainly support that. there are no dragstrips near me. well...there is one about 2hrs away but they are only open 3 months out of the year and unfortunately i was in the middle of doing alot of work to my car last summer so i never had a chance to run it. that track is also at 5000ft....ugh.i have TONS of pics hosted on my server right now so if you want to see anything in particular or have any questions just ask
EDIT: i'll still consider a trade for a RUST FREE '92-'95 Bonneville SSEi or possibly a non */C SSE so long as no BS is involved like my previous thread
thanks
Joshua Mitchell
01-28-2007, 02:30 PM
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just thought i'd throw in some vids:
this one is just a vid i took after i installed the TurboXS RFL BOV. this is not a hard launch or WOT (otherwise it would have just been spinning MAD tire). the turbo spooling up is very noitcieable and the BOV is quite loud (after all, "RFL" means REALLY ******* LOUD" )
http://www.turbosedan.com/vids/MOV02355.MPG
on the dyno at KAZ MotorSports last November:
http://www.turbosedan.com/vids/MOV03034.MPG
this one is just a vid i took after i installed the TurboXS RFL BOV. this is not a hard launch or WOT (otherwise it would have just been spinning MAD tire). the turbo spooling up is very noitcieable and the BOV is quite loud (after all, "RFL" means REALLY ******* LOUD"
)http://www.turbosedan.com/vids/MOV02355.MPG
on the dyno at KAZ MotorSports last November:
http://www.turbosedan.com/vids/MOV03034.MPG
01-28-2007, 05:16 PM
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For Sale or Trade
Have parts you want to sell? Trade? A car to sell or part out? All horsetrading or horsepower trading accepted here. Post parts you need in Wanted. Items listed here must be car-related (H body, Wbody, 3800, or Audio only).
Have parts you want to sell? Trade? A car to sell or part out? All horsetrading or horsepower trading accepted here. Post parts you need in Wanted. Items listed here must be car-related (H body, Wbody, 3800, or Audio only).
01-29-2007, 09:28 AM
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well apparantly there is some bias here against my car simply because it has a 60*V6 and not a 3800. kinda like 60degreev6.com is biased against the 3800 (which is all stupid really considering both engines are great). i talked to willwren on the phone last week and got the impression this forum wasn't like that. apparantly W-bodies must have a 3800 to be posted in the FS section here (it would be nice if that was more clear in the section description). oh well, not my forum. i'm just trying to sell a car, no biggie actually i'd kind of like to see my Regal GS FS thread moved to the lounge as well - more exposure is a good thing
bump.
actually i'd kind of like to see my Regal GS FS thread moved to the lounge as well - more exposure is a good thing bump.
01-30-2007, 01:07 AM
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i fiinally got an email reply from a guy with a Bonneville down in Denver that i am very interested in. i really don't want to miss out on this so i'm dropping the price by $500.
first person to send me $1750 THIS WEEK gets the Turbo 5-speed Cutlass. i can help with delivery depending on location. seriously interested persons ONLY. due to this Bonneville being advertised locally this is pretty much a one week only deal. i won't & can't go any lower because i have so much more invested into the car than that and besides, i love the car i just want something new/different to mess around with. after owning & modifying the same car for 7 years i guess that'* not a surprise. if i can't get $1750 this week i guess i'm stuck with it although i'd still entertain offers.
thanks,
Joshua Mitchell
first person to send me $1750 THIS WEEK gets the Turbo 5-speed Cutlass. i can help with delivery depending on location. seriously interested persons ONLY. due to this Bonneville being advertised locally this is pretty much a one week only deal. i won't & can't go any lower because i have so much more invested into the car than that and besides, i love the car
i just want something new/different to mess around with. after owning & modifying the same car for 7 years i guess that'* not a surprise. if i can't get $1750 this week i guess i'm stuck with it although i'd still entertain offers.thanks,
Joshua Mitchell
01-30-2007, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Bonneville94V688
Well, I won't have the 1,750 this week, but if you can wait a few weeks, I MAY have it. No guarantee. I am REALLY interested, but I'd like to see a 0-60 from inside the car, I'd like to get a idea on how quick it is.
And would the car make it ok from there to Amherst, Ohio?
And would the car make it ok from there to Amherst, Ohio?
EDIT: i do have vids but that sort of thing is prohibited from being posted here so if you want to see them i can PM you the link. one vid is 0-115mph and the other is 40-95mph.
01-30-2007, 01:54 AM
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Well my problem is, I need a passenger to drive with me as I only have my temps, and my mom refuses to fly, so I would not have any way to make it there. Is it a possiblility we could meet up somewhere if I choose to buy it?
01-30-2007, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Bonneville94V688
Well my problem is, I need a passenger to drive with me as I only have my temps, and my mom refuses to fly, so I would not have any way to make it there. Is it a possiblility we could meet up somewhere if I choose to buy it?