Alright, I actually have been looking everywhere for it for the past two days, can't find it, might have to go buy another. :?

for the past few minutes I've been looking up model numbers on different components and found that it IS a relay. so you'd be quite accurate.

Slight rap to the relay? Alright, I can try that. I unmounted it to get the model number from it, but I'll re mount it and get the power back on and try it again.

It also has two screws on the front, is there anything serviceable inside that I could possibly take a look at?

alright, its labeled a Coil on the unit and labeled as a "contactor" on their website, and a relay in some other places.

Info is:
Products Unlimited, PN: 3100-20T18587C
http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/T...3100-20T18587C

Not much available online about it specifically.

Coil, contactor, relay, starter, mag, they all mean the same thing in this case.

We need a meter, could be a blown fuse in the control panel itself, the coil needs 120 volt, 60 would make it buzz too.

alright, guess I can't argue with that logic. I'll do my best to get one asap.

Alright, I've got a meter now. So specifically am I testing? Output current? Input current? Little n00bish on diagnosing electrical components I actually think I used to know more. Figure that one out.

alright, so I've been doing some reading about these contactors...and its looking like a replacement would be the best possible choice? I don't mind this all that much since most all equiv replacements cost under $30

Do you know of a good reputable place to buy these types of things from? I've found them in a few different places throughout the internet, but I really want to get it from somewhere good so I can return it if need be.

Part numbers are:
SIEMENS: 45GG20AF
GE: CR453CE2ABB
Cutler Hammer: C25BNB240A
Arrow Hart: CA01NU20
Square D: 8910DP42V02

Or pretty much any 120V, 40A contactor will work, but I need one with a load of auxiliary connectors like the current one has, I'm sure these have those since they're listed as direct equivalents.

I also am not sure which company is the preferred for making the highest quality components. I would automatically trust SIEMENS and GE above the rest, but then again, I don't know anything about the others.

Just a second before we buy anything. Sorry I was working on the car yesterday to get back to you.

I watched the video again and need a better pic of the lower half.

The contactor looks like a 2 pole but the circuit is 120 so thats odd, it could be 2 different loads, ie recirc motor and heater.

Remove the fuse from the panel for safety and then disconnect the 2 lower wires, keep them separated and not touching anything. Replace the fuse in the panel and then turn the unit back on. Does it still buzz?

I'll do that and take a video doing it, so whatever happens, i don't have to explain

And no problem about the wait, the help, whenever I can get it, is appreciated more than you know. Thank you.

Alright. Took off both of those lines at the bottom of the contactor...and the GFI wouldn't engage. Guessing the hot line from the contactor to the GFI needs to still be connected...but not sure if thats a good idea to do with no load.

Here are two videos...watch them if you like, but they basically cover what i said.

http://media.colliercomputers.com/MVI_1643.AVI
http://media.colliercomputers.com/MVI_1644.AVI

Just watched the first vid waiting on the second to load.
Where do the those 2 wires go? The blue one on the left and the black on the right.