Looking good. I really like the tool boxes.

Those toolboxes were amazing. The first drawer I opened scared me it was so big and came out so far. Even completely loaded though, they open and close smooth as could be. The only thing that I found weird was in all 3 standard deep well sets, the 3/8 was missing... Figures, right?

In 8-10 years I will have all that and an AWD Dyno in my 6~8 bay shop

Surprisingly, finding the right belt was probably the easiest part of the operation today. We only had to try 2 different belts. Second one fit like a charm, and was like $7 cheaper!

EDIT: Wow, I realize now that I'm a little behind the course of the conversation here...

All I want is a lift, then a dyno

Famous last words...

After my two hour drive home, no leaking fluids, no problems that I can see. I've been trying to take it easy on it so no butt dyno yet.

Man oh man am I late seeing this one.

There'* a couple things that should be addressed. First off, you should probably get the support bracket from the charger to the bolt on the alternator back on While not totally necessary, it does help keep the belt path straight and support the Evap. This bracket will fit if you open up the hole a little 1/8" or so. This will give you the bolt location for the evap soleniod, otherwise with it hanging from that fragile elbow in mid air, you might create a vacuum leak to the system.

Here'* a pic to prove out the bracket. My 97 Bonneville.


Fuel lines, these need to be considered, because once you add an intercooler and change the rails, they become bent like pretzels above the exhaust. Two things to worry about, they will probably pinch and cut off some fuel or leak, and they are now closer to the exhaust than before. Many of us have found AN lines and fittings work well. There'* a post by myself, Pat and at least one other here on the subject. Plus..they look cool.

A pic of how the fuel lines can look/be going to the PRJ'*. The PRJ'* have 6 AN fittings and lines hook right up. I used a straight piece on the rail connection since this picture. Much better fit overall.


PCV: Any time you put a solid brick across the LIM you block off the PCV. This is one of the reasons I had chosen a W Body Store core for my build. It left the PCV wide open and functioning 100%. One problem with the ZZP fix is that it doesn't appear to keep the same size passages as stock, this would then limit the movement of pressure during a high rpm run. Adding a breather (especially in the future if you cam etc) is not a bad idea, but keep in mind that a breakther is a large unmetered vacuum leak if the PCV system is enabled and must be tuned.

Plug wires: By all means, put them under the charger. With thicker wires comes better insulation and you should be all set to mash them under the snout and possibly even the fuel rails.

Vaccum line to the FPR: Didn't really notice how you routed that? I found that running a solid like where it used to be on the front and a T after the second map sensor with a short vacuum tube leading up was the cleanest way to do it.

EGR: Does your state visually inspect your car for emissions etc? If so, leave the EGR. If not, when you go to block this off, the quickest and easiest way is to remove the valve and pedistal from the engine. Cut the two tubes to get the parts that held the tube to the LIM and exhaust manifold off. Take a penny and notice how nice if fits in the end of the pieces. Then put a dab of copper RTV on the LIM and exhaust manifold, hold piece and penny in place and bolt on. Presto, free, quick, easy and nice looking block offs.

When the LIM was off. Did you guys remove the cap on the throttle body end and open up the coolant passage to compensate for blocking the TB coolant passages in the top of the LIM? While many block the passages and don't open this area up, you have restricted coolant flow and the rear head may become hotter (in summer) due to this. I never noticed an issue personally, but make a point of opening these up whenever blocking the TB passages is planned. This could be a future item.

Wiring: I've typed so much already I don't remember if the wiring ran under or other the supercharger. If it'* over, some things are probably pretty tight. This will pull on the wires over time. If it'* not already under the TB, I'd move it there pretty soon to relieve any tension.

Belt...hahahahahaha you got ZZP'd, in their usual manner they didn't pay attention and sent you belts for the GP/Regal to fit the intercooler and not a Bonneville which has a different SC tensioner, making the belt much longer. Hopefully you mentioned that you had a Bonneville. If not..you got Tom'd. Not having a supercharger is horrible.

Pump/hoses: I saw a mention of the pump being moved/hoses crimped. On the clear braided hoses I could find locally, none gave a good temperature rating and I only used one between the core and the pump to visually see bubbles/flow. Otherwise I was a little leary of using it in the engine bay. I know many have and have had good luck, I wasn't comfy with it though. On the pump, you should have the pump mounted at almost the lowest point of the IC system, pulling coolant from the lowest heat exchanger outlet. This safeties the pump similar to the water pump in our cars. They draw from the bottom of the rad to ensure it does not pull air and lose it'* prime, then burn out. If you can..I'm interested and would like to see more pics of how you guys did the front mount and pump etc. Switch, are you going to run the pump off a switch? It'* a good idea to have a way to turn off the pump when loading tunes, sitting w/o motor running etc.

I like how it all looks, it'* awesome and came out great. Please consider the above some of my learning experiences that I'm trying to help out by passing on to you.

BTW..it really shouldn't be discussed in Tom'* thread, but if anyone with a good eye is wondering about the picture of my 97, or thinking many things don't looks right for that year. You have a good Bonneville eye.

Wow, that was long. Well, here we go!

Dan, do you still have that laying on your bench somewhere? I don't think I brought that home with me, but I'll have to double check.

I agree 100% with that, I've got them routed a little better right now to remove kinks, but this needs to be tackled. Trent was going to help me with this, but we didn't have the AN lines, going to have to acquire some. I agree they do look MUCH better as well.

Are you saying that even if we drilled out the hole for the PCV, it would still limit the movement? In that case, I think I'd be best off to stick with the breather and tune. Otherwise, I would think that having this functioning would help fuel mileage and I'll see about getting it fixed.

I'm still working with that, I like the way everything flows better with them on top of the SC, but I would rather have them elsewhere. That will be something to figure out as I tweak everything in.

That sounds pretty much how I have it. I put a T right off the second map sensor, and then ran it underneath the fuel rails and it runs right next to the fuel line that runs over the SC next the the TB.

They do not inspect anything This is on my to do list.

uh... Dan? Did we do that? lol

All the wiring is run underneath accept for the one big bundle fir the injectors, sensors, etc. My initial concern with running that underneath the TB would be it'* proximity to the exhaust. But I'll have to look into that more.

Well, I would think they know my vehicle by now, but that is what I ordered. I would have to say I got Tom'd. Lesson learned.

I'm not to concerned with the hoses melting, they are routed pretty well and not close to any significant heat sources that I know of. I could be completely wrong here, but everything seems fine so far. Feel free to criticize for being to lax.

I am generally happy with the placement of everything, I need to straighten the mounts on the radiator so it'* not lopsided, although I guess it does lean towards the outlet. Still looks a little off though. I will get you some pictures the next time I drop the splash guard. Here is pretty much how that went though. Dan drilled the holes in the front bumper to mount the rad to, I had to remove the 2 bracing bars that run down in front of the main rad. I later ended up having Trent cut out a section of the bumper for the IC rad filler section to go into so it would be flush against the bumper. The pictures will make sense of it for you. I have all kinds of switches that I need to put in, think I'm going to set up a switch panel in the center console, or ash tray, or wherever it works out best. The IC will be one of them.

Thanks! Your help is always appreciated, I'd rather learn from your experiences/mistakes then have to make my own.

Ya, PM me your address and I'll box that up and ship it out later this week.

This really depends on what your plans are down the road. The ZZP fix as we'll call it, most likely only addresses the pretty stock with IC setups. Once you notice that you are revving much faster, a regular pcv and it'* passages won't supply you with enough flow to clear the crankcase. We never want pressure...that holds back the rpm and our motors. Some folks have used vacuum pumps and seen reasonable gains. Even I'm not to that point yet. I'm thinking about it though.

If I could..I'd go wireless. Til then..they are tucked and that keeps them from being pulled tight.

Uh Tom..you don't have any lines over the SC anymore. What do you mean?

I wish I had that. Meanwhile the engine looks uh... "stockish"

If you have a concern about it. Hit up a JY and find a GP. GP'* usually have a shielded type loom over the fuel lines in the engine bay. I put a piece of that over the wiring to protect it better.

Assume nothing with them. The only reasons I dislike them is their customer service is worse than sub par and their employees can't count past 4. It'* sad, because many of their products are good.

I understand how something may sound confusing.


You mentioned switches. I added the ones behind the seat buttons. The one with indicator is the IC pump.


It'* called a Flow Detect Kit. Made by Caspers for a time for Intense-Racing. Unfortunately they are no longer made and you have to be lucky to find on. I was.


Red light no flow. Green light..you are ready to rock.

Pat repinned and added to his fusebox. You might want to ask him for pics/tips. I chose to add the fuses and relays in the factory relay center (1997). Both the electric water pump and IC pump. Things look very factory oriented in my car, I have trouble settling for anything else. Yup, I'm nuts.