Turning Rotors
#11
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Originally Posted by willwren
I'd rather replace the rotors than spend 10 bucks to have them turned on the car. There'* no way you'll get them flat and true enough without using the hub face as a machining reference.
Take them off and take them in to be turned. Save yourself the labor of removal and installation that way.
Take them off and take them in to be turned. Save yourself the labor of removal and installation that way.
Your completely wrong here bill. The whole purpose for turning the rotors on the vehicle is to ensure that the rotors match whatever run-out may be existant in the hub itself, when you are buying new rotors they may be flat and true to the machine that they are manufactured on, or re-surfaced on a brake lathe. But they will NOT be true to the runout in your own hubs. Remember, your own vehicle hub is the base pioint of rotor action, and is therefore the perfect reference point when machining rotors, and this is accieved only with on-the-car lathes
#13
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Originally Posted by toastedoats
Originally Posted by willwren
I'd rather replace the rotors than spend 10 bucks to have them turned on the car. There'* no way you'll get them flat and true enough without using the hub face as a machining reference.
Take them off and take them in to be turned. Save yourself the labor of removal and installation that way.
Take them off and take them in to be turned. Save yourself the labor of removal and installation that way.
Your completely wrong here bill. The whole purpose for turning the rotors on the vehicle is to ensure that the rotors match whatever run-out may be existant in the hub itself, when you are buying new rotors they may be flat and true to the machine that they are manufactured on, or re-surfaced on a brake lathe. But they will NOT be true to the runout in your own hubs. Remember, your own vehicle hub is the base pioint of rotor action, and is therefore the perfect reference point when machining rotors, and this is accieved only with on-the-car lathes
By turning them off the car, you get a mechanical 'compromise' to prevent doubling the runout error by turning them on the car then forget which hole went over which stud.
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
How does the on car machine attach to the car to machine the rotor?
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Originally Posted by willwren
Originally Posted by toastedoats
Originally Posted by willwren
I'd rather replace the rotors than spend 10 bucks to have them turned on the car. There'* no way you'll get them flat and true enough without using the hub face as a machining reference.
Take them off and take them in to be turned. Save yourself the labor of removal and installation that way.
Take them off and take them in to be turned. Save yourself the labor of removal and installation that way.
Your completely wrong here bill. The whole purpose for turning the rotors on the vehicle is to ensure that the rotors match whatever run-out may be existant in the hub itself, when you are buying new rotors they may be flat and true to the machine that they are manufactured on, or re-surfaced on a brake lathe. But they will NOT be true to the runout in your own hubs. Remember, your own vehicle hub is the base pioint of rotor action, and is therefore the perfect reference point when machining rotors, and this is accieved only with on-the-car lathes
By turning them off the car, you get a mechanical 'compromise' to prevent doubling the runout error by turning them on the car then forget which hole went over which stud.
the runout will be existant and cause excessive runout wear on the rotors no matter what happens unless the runout is compromised by on-car-lathe. yes, if the rotors are removed and re-installed in a different position, it will be a larger increas in runout, but there is a deeper issue causing run-out that will cause perfeclt machined (off the vehicle) rotors to wear unevenly aswell
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Originally Posted by jwakamud
i made a thread in performance to discuss this
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=63151
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=63151
#18
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I deleted your new topic specifically because this one spawned it. Your question would have been better asked here, as it wasn't related to performance and was general in nature, and this topic is what spawned your question in the first place.
Splitting replies between two topics get us nowhere fast.
Splitting replies between two topics get us nowhere fast.
#19
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Any time the pads are changed, the rotors should be turned as Toasty replied. In the reverse, if you're going to replace or turn the rotors, the pads should be changed, but if there'* alot of material left on them, some people will 'scuff' them. It'* generally not the preferred practice.
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Originally Posted by willwren
I'd rather replace the rotors than spend 10 bucks to have them turned on the car. There'* no way you'll get them flat and true enough without using the hub face as a machining reference.
Take them off and take them in to be turned. Save yourself the labor of removal and installation that way.
Take them off and take them in to be turned. Save yourself the labor of removal and installation that way.
rotors are so cheap these days