View Poll Results: Flush the clutch material out of the trans or not
Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll
The trans flush debate. Pictures on Page 3
01-31-2007, 03:54 PM
#22
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Hans, why on EARTH would you want to put some kind of additive in your trans if you say it'* shifting fine?
Mechanic in a can isn't going to do a thing for you.
Mechanic in a can isn't going to do a thing for you.
01-31-2007, 03:55 PM
#23
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I disagree (with Bandit). I changed my fluid at 121k because of slippage and it'* never shifted better, but then again, you're at 150k... If I were you, I'd change it; knowing that it'* probably on its way out anyways. So, I guess it'* your choice, but that'* my two cents; Spend them wisely 
01-31-2007, 04:26 PM
#25
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FWIW, I did my first flush on my current Bonne at around 65K, about 15K after the recommended time according to the local lube shop in Michigan. Since then I've had it flushed twice and now had the pan dropped with filter change twice. Car now has 170K and no trans issues yet.
See how anecdotal information can be misleading? Read only Bandit'* and you'd never do it. Read only mine and you'd happily do it. Neither are really going to give you real data though, since they were not test done with controlled known situations and you may or may not actually be getting all the information (as it may not all be known, being uncontrolled situations).
Stick with what IS known. We know that dropping the pan and changing the filter is a good thing. It is least shocking to your trans and will at least get some of that old, spent fluid out and replaced with new fluid that has new additives, etc. We KNOW this is good. Plus, you will be able to slowly filter out more crap out of the remaining bad fluid and when you change it again in another 15K or so, it will get even better.
See how anecdotal information can be misleading? Read only Bandit'* and you'd never do it. Read only mine and you'd happily do it. Neither are really going to give you real data though, since they were not test done with controlled known situations and you may or may not actually be getting all the information (as it may not all be known, being uncontrolled situations).
Stick with what IS known. We know that dropping the pan and changing the filter is a good thing. It is least shocking to your trans and will at least get some of that old, spent fluid out and replaced with new fluid that has new additives, etc. We KNOW this is good. Plus, you will be able to slowly filter out more crap out of the remaining bad fluid and when you change it again in another 15K or so, it will get even better.
01-31-2007, 04:48 PM
#26
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B adnit and anyone else who says dont flush: Could you explain to us all how that CLEAN fluid will kill a transmission?? That is possibly the stupidest thing i have ever heard...
Can the grit help a slipping clutch grab a bit harder? - yes. BUT that is only in a case where the clutch cannot grab on its own and by a stroke of luck some of the sludge created some added friction that the clutch material is missing
Can the grit help a slipping clutch grab a bit harder? - yes. BUT that is only in a case where the clutch cannot grab on its own and by a stroke of luck some of the sludge created some added friction that the clutch material is missing
01-31-2007, 04:50 PM
#27
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I agree with the whip boy. Here is something else to consider - $$$$. Most places will charge you $100 for a flush. A trans filter and gasket kit are about $15 and two gallons of Dexron III are about $15 more. (You won't need more than 11 of those 16 pints.) So, dropping the pan gets you a new filter for sure, a clean pan for sure, an injection of almost 50% new fluid, is not known to cause harm, AND saves you $75. Not a difficult choice for me.
01-31-2007, 04:52 PM
#28
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Totally agree with Toasty. If your tranny is supported by sludge, I'd consider that a very very bad thing that needs to be addressed. Think about this, you're driving down the highway and BLAM, hit a pothole and dislodge the sludge. You'd be on the side of the road calling a tow truck. At LEAST change the fluid and filter, and if it slips, time to rebuild
01-31-2007, 04:55 PM
#29
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What im saying is that my Trans was Not having any problems and was shifting fine before.
Now that i drooped the Pan and changed the filter its NOT shifting fine and Now is NOT going into gear when cold, and is also dropping out of 1st gear into N when slowing down from a 10+mile drive at 45 or faster.
So YES in my case im saying New trans fluid did Kill or Loosen up something to Kill my trans IE something now sticking in the valve Body.
You all can disagree with me all you want but To ANYONE that has 150K+ on a trans that knows that fluid has Never or Maybe once has been change i would not suggest changing it.
Now that i drooped the Pan and changed the filter its NOT shifting fine and Now is NOT going into gear when cold, and is also dropping out of 1st gear into N when slowing down from a 10+mile drive at 45 or faster.
So YES in my case im saying New trans fluid did Kill or Loosen up something to Kill my trans IE something now sticking in the valve Body.
You all can disagree with me all you want but To ANYONE that has 150K+ on a trans that knows that fluid has Never or Maybe once has been change i would not suggest changing it.
01-31-2007, 04:55 PM
#30
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Ok, I'm going to make a wild guess and say that the problem is not as bad on the 4t65 as the 4t60...It seems the horror stories are on the 4t60e, myself included, people who change their fluid after high miles on a 4t60 have more problems, I had trans go out on my 87 4t60 (not electronic) and like I said earlier, my 93 had its fluid changed each year regardless of miles and had a really earlier failure considering the car never abused and a highway car only.
The only argument to not flushing it is that there are particles mixed with the fluid that allows
read this:
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/transslip.html
Either way my trans is probably going to die one of these days once the rockers go in I think.
The only argument to not flushing it is that there are particles mixed with the fluid that allows
read this:
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/transslip.html
Originally Posted by above listed website
If your vehicle has high mileage (> 80,000 miles) and the transmission has not been maintained, I would not recommend replacing the fluid and filter. The fluid that has been in the transmission all this time has become dirty and gritty. This gritty fluid is actually providing needed friction for the worn internal parts of the transmission. Changing the fluid and replacing the filter would remove this friction that the internal transmission parts have become dependent on. If you have not been regularly maintaining the transmission throughout the life of the car, you might actually be doing more harm than good if you replace the transmission fluid at this point. For example, putting new clean slick transmission fluid in an older high mileage vehicle could cause the transmission to slip.
If you are not experiencing a problem, have over 80,000 miles on your car, and have not kept up regular maintenance on the transmission, my advice would be to leave the transmission fluid and filter alone. If you are experiencing a transmission problem like those listed above, seek the advice of a qualified transmission shop before allowing your regular mechanic to service the transmission.
I learned about this problem several years ago...the hard way. We had two cars in our shop with these "minor" transmission symptoms that I have listed above, and both of them had to be towed out to the transmission shop after servicing. The old fluid was gritty due to metal shavings caused by normal internal wear and tear on the transmission clutches and was acting like liquid sandpaper. This "sandpaper" was producing the friction needed for the transmission to pull itself. When we changed the filter and replaced the old fluid with new fluid, the clutches inside the transmission had nothing to grab on to. Sometimes even the best of us learn lessons the hard (and expensive) way.
If you are not experiencing a problem, have over 80,000 miles on your car, and have not kept up regular maintenance on the transmission, my advice would be to leave the transmission fluid and filter alone. If you are experiencing a transmission problem like those listed above, seek the advice of a qualified transmission shop before allowing your regular mechanic to service the transmission.
I learned about this problem several years ago...the hard way. We had two cars in our shop with these "minor" transmission symptoms that I have listed above, and both of them had to be towed out to the transmission shop after servicing. The old fluid was gritty due to metal shavings caused by normal internal wear and tear on the transmission clutches and was acting like liquid sandpaper. This "sandpaper" was producing the friction needed for the transmission to pull itself. When we changed the filter and replaced the old fluid with new fluid, the clutches inside the transmission had nothing to grab on to. Sometimes even the best of us learn lessons the hard (and expensive) way.