Getting a trouble code of P420 and P336. I know the P420 has to do with the catalytic converter, but the P336 is a crank shaft sensor code. Do I just need to replace the sensor? Cleaned it last night and still getting the Check Engine light coming on. No start conditions, especially after stopping when the car has been running at temperature. 200 degrees. Same problems I'm seeing from some of you others out there. It'* like it has a mind of it'* own. Hoping the timing chain is still good. It has stalled for no reason after reaching operating temperature. Hoping that trouble code of P0016/ Crankshaft/Camshaft position, bank 1, sensor A-correlation denotes timing chain out of position.

My code is P0336 and hoping I just need to replace the sensor. Can anybody help or has been in this situation? Should I be checking wires and connectors to the ignition module. When I do try to start the car again it can take as long as 20-30 minutes or I guess until it cools down. Usually never have any trouble in the morning.

I checked the electrical systems chart and it seems that this P0336 code/Crankshaft position sensor A circuit-range or performance pertains to the Spark Ref. In

When I'm trying to start the car during the 'no start' conditions, I smell the gas like it'* flooded, but not getting the spark to kick it over. Only randomly or unless I let it sit. HELP!

Hello,
You might want to take a look at the wire harness that has the crank & cam sensor. if the wire harness has problems like an open.. it will give you an array of codes.You might also be able to set a code for the knock sensor too, I think it might be part of the circuit that has the crank sensor.
if the tach drops to zero 10 seconds before the car stalls/shuts off etc then its usually the crank sensor.
If the tach drops to zero.. just replace the crank sensor regardless.
The engine has to be at temp to set the DTC'*. The PCM has paramteres for setting codes and engine temp is one for the crank sensor.
Also sometimes the low traction light will come on for what seems like no reason. I can't remember which models do it but its suposed to come on after 10 seconds of not getting signal from the crank sensor.
I would start the engine, let it idle and start to wiggle wires, see f you can make it missfire or stall by moving the wires on that harness or leading up to it.

It would help a little if we knew what year make & model...

Thanks. I was messing with the wires at the connector to the Ignition Module yesterday and that seemed to help. There is a piece missing off the connector (Bottom, right-hand side) that is exposing the rubber fitting that leads into the Ignition Module. I wrapped the whole connector with a few wraps of electrical tape after checking the wires leading into the connector to make sure they were snug. Started the car and no Check Engine light.

Drove for about an hour picking up kids for soccer and before we got to the field the light came back on. Checked the connector again and because of the heat especially coming off the radiator when the fan kicks on the tape had begun to shrink and move out of position. Hoping that by configuring something to insulate the connector without having to rewire a new one I can solve this issue.

The car is a '97 Pontiac Bonneville SE, Champagne color with leather interior and power everything. I love the car, but it seems to have a mind of its own sometimes. Thanks for the reply and saw you were in Chandler. I'm in Phoenix.

Doug