Tip on installing endlinks
#1
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Tip on installing endlinks
I recently had to replace the endlinks on my 98 LeSabre. I went with Moog K8989 with the blue polyurethane bushings.
I put the front on ramps. The driver'* side original endlink was already loose and slid out easily. The passenger'* side had already fallen off about a week ago.
When I went to install the new endlinks, I found that there wasn't enough clearance bewteen the control arm and the swaybar to fit the bushing-washer-spacer-washer-bushing assembly into place.
I got out the hydraulic floor jack, jacked up on the frame just inside the control arm ever so slightly, obtaining additional separation between the control arm and swaybar. The endlink was a snap to install then.
Bonus tip (at least on my car, with this endlink kit): don't bother to apply the torque wrench until you've squashed the bushings so that at least 9 threads show on the bolt.
I put the front on ramps. The driver'* side original endlink was already loose and slid out easily. The passenger'* side had already fallen off about a week ago.
When I went to install the new endlinks, I found that there wasn't enough clearance bewteen the control arm and the swaybar to fit the bushing-washer-spacer-washer-bushing assembly into place.
I got out the hydraulic floor jack, jacked up on the frame just inside the control arm ever so slightly, obtaining additional separation between the control arm and swaybar. The endlink was a snap to install then.
Bonus tip (at least on my car, with this endlink kit): don't bother to apply the torque wrench until you've squashed the bushings so that at least 9 threads show on the bolt.
#2
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
All of us have to use the jack on the sway bar. As far as the threads showing goes, it depends on the kit. Most of us use either OEM or Energy Suspension kits. Bolt lengths may vary.
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